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New Speed Record On The Nose By Potter And Leary

Posted November 8, 2010 at 7:20 am · Comments { 8 } ·

According to SuperTopo and Speedclimb.com Dean Potter and Sean Leary teamed up to set a new speed record for climbing The Nose on El Capitan.  The pair blazed up the wall in at an astonishing 2:36:45, shaving 20 seconds off the previous record set by Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama in 2008.

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2 5.14bs By Danny Robertson In Rifle

Posted November 5, 2010 at 6:54 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Danny Robertson did his 2nd 5.14b of the season yesterday with his repeat of Dave Graham’s Girl Talk in Rifle, CO.  Previously he had also repeated Andy Raether’s Stockboys Revenge back in October.

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The Dagger (V14) Repeated By Paul Robinson

Posted November 5, 2010 at 6:42 am · Comments { 0 } ·

27Crags reports that Paul Robinson repeated The Dagger (V14) in Cresciano, Switzerland suggesting that with optimal beta the problem felt like climbing 2 V11s in a row which math math math is more like a V13 than the V14 grade usually assigned to this problem.  Now Paul is off to Italy to compete in the IMS Boulder Festival against the likes of Nalle Hukkataival, Kilian Fischhuber and Christian Core.

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Possible V13 At Rock Creek By Charlie Barrett

Posted October 21, 2010 at 12:59 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

The Bishop Bouldering Blog reports that Charlie Barrett established a sit start to Compression Session (V9) at Rock Creek near Bishop, CA to yield a potential V13 called Lessons.  Barrett then moved over to Yosemite where he repeated Matt Wilder’s stunning V12 Shadow Warrior which gives me an excuse to link to this video on DPM featuring multiple repeats of said problem.

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Potential 5.14c By Joe Kinder In Rifle

Posted October 15, 2010 at 12:17 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Rock & Ice reports that Joe Kinder did the FA of Waka Flocka Flame at Rifle, CO’s Project Wall.  This line links up Waka Flocka (a 5.14b Kinder did the FA of in August) and Living The Dream (the 5.14a extension to Living In Fear) via a V7 boulder problem to yield a potential 5.14c or d according to Kinder’s scorecard.  More on Kinder’s website.

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Brian Kim Repeats Iron Monkey (5.14) In Eldorado Canyon

Posted October 15, 2010 at 7:32 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Deadpoint Magazine reports that Brian Kim made a rare repeat of the trad testpiece Iron Monkey (5.14) in Eldorado Canyon, CO.  First done by Matt Segal in 2006, Iron Monkey climbs a tough boulder problem over small gear.
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 You can see Matt Wilder attempt the line in this video.

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Jen Vennon Repeats The 7 P.M. Show (5.14a) In Rifle

Posted October 12, 2010 at 12:33 pm · Comments { 2 } ·

Rock & Ice reports on their website that Jen Vennon repeated The 7 P.M. Show (5.14a) in Rifle, CO.  Female 5.14 sends are somewhat rare in Rifle and the R&I story does a nice job covering some of the history of women climbers there.  You can read some of Vennon’s thoughts on her blog.

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