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2011 Youth World Championships

Semi-finals and Finals of the 2011 Youth World Championships (of sport climbing) take place tomorrow (Saturday, August 26th) in Imst, Austria.
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 Watch live beginning at 10:00 AM local time (4:00 AM EST) as some of America’s best young climbers test their skills on youth climbing’s biggest stage.

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Joe Kinder On Bad Girls Club FA & Life In South Africa

In the most recent update from his amazing trip around Europe and South Africa Joe Kinder takes a minute to comment on Matty Hong’s recent FA of a route Kinder equipped in Rifle:

The news today was awesome.  I am very proud of Matty and appreciate him showing such respect and his communication.  I appreciate all of the praise from Carlo, Jon, Dave, and Matty.
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 For some reason it makes the whole story end with such a sweet and honest feeling.
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 Matty is a great example of his generation and I would have given up many sends for him to have climbed the first ascent of Bad Girls Club.
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 Way to go man…

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5.14d In Oliana For Chris Sharma

Daila Ojeda mentions on her Spanish blog that before coming to the U.S. for the Outdoor Retailer Trade Show in Salt Lake City, UT and his annual Yo Basecamp in Bishop, CA boyfriend Chris Sharma made quick work of Duele la Realidad (5.14d) in Oliana, Spain.

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Potential 5.14d FA In Rifle By Matty Hong

Rock & Ice has the details on Matty Hong doing the FA of a route Joe Kinder bolted and left as an open project last summer in Rifle, CO called Bad Girls Club:

What makes Bad Girls Club difficult is that it is stacked with difficult boulder problems, culminating with a V-double-digit boulder problem right at the lip of the 100-foot cave. Whether the mythic 5.14d grade will hold remains to be seen.

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5.14d Birthday Present For Charlotte Durif

Literally as she was turning 21 years of age France’s Charlotte Durif redpointed PPP (5.14d) at Grotte de Galetas in France’s Verdon Gorge according to a posting on her website.  First done in 2010 by Adam Ondra, PPP is Durif’s first 5.14d making her likely only the second woman, after Josune Bereziartu, to ever climb a pitch given that grade.  Durif had previously done a couple of 5.
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14c’s including these two she did the FA of back in 2009.

Update:  Much has been made in a thread on 8a.nu about the fact that almost all European news outlets have not reported this news.  Cedric from the French site Kairn.com explains the reasoning behind this action in a comment posted below:

As we discovered that Charlotte is lying a lot about her claims, we decided with other website part of CWN (Climbing Web Network) such as UKClimbing, Belclimb, Klettern…) not to post anymore about her claims if we have no independent witness.
Several elements makes us think that again she did not do what she claims.
Even Beal and Petzl, her sponsors, did not post about her 8c onsight.
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She is strong, very strong. But she (and her father most of all) is lying too much.

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New 5.13+ Multipitch By Trotter & Caldwell In Canada

Sonnie Trotter and Tommy Caldwell have teamed up to establish a 15 pitch route up the Diamond Face on Mount Louis in the Canadian Rockies.  Dubbed The Shining, the route has 7 pitches that were bolted on lead with difficulties up to 5.13+.  After three days of prep the pair returned to free all the pitches in a single push:

It is one of the best routes I have ever climbed, and I could not imagine having a better partner for it. In fact, if it were not for Tommy, it would definitely still be a project.  He’s my ultimate hero.

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Honnold Repeats Cobra Crack

Via his 8a.nu scorecard comes word that Alex Honnold has repeated the 5.14 trad route Cobra Crack in Squamish, BC. First done in the summer of 2006 by Sonnie Trotter, Cobra Crack has seen repeats from the likes of Nicolas Favresse, Ethan Pringle, Matt Segal, Yuji Hirahama and Will Stanhope among others.

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