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Wheel Of Life Repeated By James Kassay

Posted September 7, 2011 at 8:00 am · Comments { 3 } ·

About two years after he climbed the epic Hollow Mountain Cave link-up Sleepy Rave, James Kassay managed to send the epic Hollow Mountain Cave link-up Wheel Of Life which adds a V9 on the front end of the aforementioned Sleepy Rave.  It could be argued that Wheel Of Life is more of a route than a boulder problem (just check out the 12 minute video Ethan Pringle climbing the line), but Kassay registered his ascent as V16 on his 8a scorecard and commented that he’s now trying a “direct” version of the problem.

Update:  Kassay updated his blog with some interesting thoughts on the ascent including why it may have taken him longer than some would have thought to put together the full Wheel Of Life:

Call me stubborn, crazy or out right stupid if you must but climbing the full length of the cave wasn’t just a matter of getting from one end to the other the easiest possible way. Ethan was confused as to why I didn’t want to use the “easier beta” of putting on knee pads and milking the knee bar rests that are otherwise impossible to use…
Ultimately I set myself a personal goal and that was the way I was going to do it.

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Lucifer (5.14c) Repeated (Again) By Adam Taylor

Posted September 6, 2011 at 7:35 am · Comments { 4 } ·

In a post summarizing what sounded like a pretty miserable Labor Day weekend weather-wise at the Red River Gorge, the folks at the Team Saucisson blog casually dropped the fact that low key local Adam Taylor repeated Lucifer (5.14c).  Taylor had previously done many of the Red’s other hard routes like Pure Imagination (5.14d) and his route Golden Ticket (5.14d).

Update:  Well, I jumped the gun a bit as Taylor was simply repeating Lucifer again, not for the first time.  Thanks to Eddie for helping to set me straight.
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Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Repeated By Jonathan Siegrist

Posted September 5, 2011 at 5:28 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Not long after its FA by Matty Hong, Jonathan Siegrist has, according to my spies, done the 2nd ascent of Bad Girls Club (5.14d) in Rifle, CO. More details to come, I’m sure, on Siegrists’ excellent blog.

Update:  As expected, Siegrist has posted about the send which came on his 8th try:

3 rests, nearly a hundred moves and 17 bolts later, I was clipping chains. Very pleased. First and foremost, Joey Kinder deserves a shout out – he put in tons of effort on this thing, cleaning it up, equipping it and giving it love. (sorry I doubted you man! this is a RAD addition, and a worthy Colorado test-piece). Secondly, Matty Hong – a really impressive effort… Matty has become a true king of this style, having done almost every hard route in the canyon, psyched for you man!

Update 2:  Siegrist also sent The Crew (5.14c) and talks about both sends in this interview with Rock & Ice

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Shawn Raboutou Climbs 5.14b At Age 13

Shawn Raboutou Climbs 5.14b At Age 13

Posted September 1, 2011 at 9:32 am · Comments { 4 } · Photo: Shawn Raboutou by Laurent Filoche

Earlier this summer 13 year-old Shawn Raboutou climbed his first 5.14b in Rodellar, Spain’s Welcome To Tijuana.  UKClimbing caught up with Shawn, sister Brooke and mom Robyn to talk briefly about their summer and their approach to climbing.

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More On Adam Ondra’s Trip To Rocklands

Posted August 31, 2011 at 12:33 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

Adam Ondra has wrapped up his trip to Rocklands, South Africa, and in addition to the earlier repeats he added flashes of Leopard Cave (V12) and the likely 3rd ascent of Fred Nicole’s Golden Shadow (V14) to his 8a scorecard.  It wasn’t all easy for Ondra though as this entry on his scorecard for the popular V11ish problem Gliding Through Waves Like Dolphins can attest:

last day in the dark with no power, 25 goes

That sign of mortality notwithstanding, Ondra did have a pretty productive trip with repeats of three V14’s or harder and flashes of seven V11’s or harder including the classic problem Nutsa (V11).  You can read more about the first half of his trip, including a picture of him trying the unrepeated Livin’ Large (V15?), here.

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Bouldering World Cup Champs Fischhuber & Stöhr To Appear On ClimbTalk Radio

Posted August 30, 2011 at 12:16 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

On Friday, September 2 reigning World Cup Bouldering champs Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stöhr will be live in studio for Boulder, Colorado’s ClimbTalk radio show.  Other guests scheduled to appear include Jonathan Siegrist and Chuck Fryberger who will be there to talk about his latest movie, The Scene.  The show airs at 10:00 PM MST and can be heard on Radio 1190 in the Boulder area or streamed from the Radio 1190 website.

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New V13s In Australia By Hukkataival & Graham

Posted August 29, 2011 at 1:45 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Nalle Hukkataival checks in from Australia with news of a handful of new problems done in the V11-V13 range by himself and Dave Graham.  So, are they almost out of things to do?
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 In a word, no:

It’s crazy how many projects and areas there are and even though we’ve been climbing pretty much every single day, there still isn’t nearly enough time for all that we’re psyched on. We may have to extend our tickets…

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