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5.14 Trad By Yuji Hirayama During Visit To Italy

Posted October 27, 2011 at 9:45 am · Comments { 5 } ·

PlanetMountain has a report from Yuji Hirayama about a recent visit to Italy that included a second try ascent of the trad line Greenspit (5.14-).

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5.14b In Rifle By Emily Harrington

Posted October 21, 2011 at 7:32 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The historic season of sending in Rifle continues as Climbing reports that Emily Harrington repeated Joe Kinder’s Waka Flocka (5.14b), her first of the grade in Rifle.

Update – More from Harrington on her blog:

I learned alot from climbing on Waka Flocka.  I learned how to climb more powerfully, to try harder, and to have patience.  Like Chris said, every route is a process, and even the mental aspects don’t come easily.  Most importantly though, I realized through this experience how important climbing is to me.  I went through a phase a few years ago where I wasn’t sure if climbing was my true passion, or if I’d just gone down that path subconsciously because I didn’t know any different.
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 It took several years to realize how much I care about this sport and the lifestyle that goes along with it.
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 I am fortunate to have this life, and I wouldn’t want it any different.

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The Key To Being World Cup Champion?

Posted October 20, 2011 at 11:00 am · Comments { 1 } ·

With Austrian climbers winning the recent sport climbing World Cup in Boulder as well as the overall Boulder World Cup title, you might be wondering what their secret to success is.  In an appearance on Boulder’s ClimbTalk Radio Show World Cup Champ Kilian Fischhuber let us in on this key tip:

I always climb my problems on my last try.  And I keep doing that.  It’s really cool.

Ok, maybe there’s more to being a World Cup champion than that, but check out the rest of the transcript of the interview for a fun conversation with Fischhuber, Anna Stöhr, Chuck Fryberger, Cody Roth and Jonathan Siegrist.

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Dawn Wall 2011

Posted October 19, 2011 at 1:18 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson returned to Yosemite late last month to resume work on their Dawn Wall project. Unfortunately, Kevin has been sidelined, at least temporarily, by an ankle injury sustained while working one of the pitches. Tommy is still there doing his thing though, and in this piece for the Cleanest Line he talks about what drives him to work on projects like this:

The formula is pretty set. Dream up a climbing trip or pick a climbing objective, then direct my life towards that goal… whatever it takes. I have come to depend on the stress and pain.
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For me, a day without suffering is like a day without sunshine. I stuff my gnarled, fungus infested feet into shoes three sizes too small and climb until my fingers bleed. And if that wasn’t enough I have decided I prefer to do this on really big climbs where the pain can stretch on for days, weeks, even months.
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You can follow their progress by following Tommy and Kevin on Twitter, by checking out the El Cap Report or better yet just waiting for me to share any updates I come across.

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Alex Honnold: “I hardly ever do anything badass”

Posted October 18, 2011 at 9:00 am · Comments { 5 } ·

Alex Honnold has been getting a lot of attention lately, likely related to that TV show you might have seen him on. This recent interview he did with Trails Edge has several interesting nuggets including this one about what his life is like most days:

All I do is live my normal life and do my normal thing. I go out everyday and go climbing. People see a very cherry-picked thing, they don’t see the tons of days I go out there and totally suck.
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I hardly ever do anything badass. It’s just that when I do, it all happens on film. That’s the thing about climbing: at any level you’re always pushing yourself.
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So everybody, no matter how good they are, always feels like they suck because they’re always on some harder and harder project.

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New V14 In Finland By Nalle Hukkataival

Posted October 14, 2011 at 2:08 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Fresh off a trip to Font, Nalle Hukkataival returned to a project in his native Finland that he was finally able to dispatch after a prolonged effort:

It’s a great problem on bulletproof granite and climbs extremely well. Every move requires lots of body tension and shoulder strength. It climbs very differently than granite usually does and it is more like a sandstone problem style-wise. I decided to name it Circus Elephant Syndrome and for the grade I’m proposing hard 8B+.

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Ramon Julian Onsights 5.14c In Rifle

Posted October 13, 2011 at 11:14 am · Comments { 11 } ·

After a disappointing finish in the World Cup in Boulder, Ramon Julian Puigblanque made the drive west to Rifle for a short trip and things went just a little better for him there:

On day two, Julian onsighted Living in Fear (5.13d), shaking out in the worst possible places, and making the super-sustained testpiece look like 5.10, according to witnesses. After onsighting Living, Julian returned to the Wicked Cave, and surprised himself by onsighting The Crew (5.14c), one of the hardest routes in the canyon. The performance surprised even Julian, who said that it was a true “a muerte” fight to the end. Some of the hardest moves on the route are right at the top, and are said to be especially hard if you’re short.

Rock & Ice has the rest of the details.

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