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Rock & Ice’s Top 10 Ascents Of 2011

Posted December 19, 2011 at 8:02 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Rock & Ice unveils their countdown of the top 10 ascents of 2011.  One could certainly quibble with the ordering of things, but I think it’s pretty clear that 2011 was the opposite of a failure for everyone on the list.

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Jeremy Zachariash On Going From 0 To 5.14 In Just A Few Years

Posted December 15, 2011 at 8:03 am · Comments { 5 } ·

DPM catches up with Jeremy Zachariash who progressed from not climbing to sending 5.14 in just four years:

My weaknesses are ice cream, sugar cookies with buttercream frosting, cinnabons, and chocolate mousse.  My strengths are climbing in any conditions and whenever I can.

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NY Times Examines “From-The-Route Social Media” In Climbing

Posted December 13, 2011 at 8:27 am · Comments { 6 } ·

The New York Times picks up on the issue of climbers using technology to provide near-live updates of their efforts, with Tommy Caldwell’s Dawn Wall Push as a prime example:

The Dawn Wall, as Caldwell’s project is known, is the latest example of what has become an increasingly accepted practice among professional climbers and the wider climbing community: from-the-route social media. Observers enjoy it, sponsors encourage it and climbers get to share what is inherently a selfish pursuit.
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I may be a bit biased, but I like this trend.

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Adam Ondra Talks Gioia

Posted December 7, 2011 at 8:07 am · Comments { 8 } ·

PlanetMountain caught up with Adam Ondra yesterday after his repeat of Gioia to ask him the important questions like how’d it feel, what’s next and what he thinks about the grade:

Well every single move is at the very limit and so I do think it’s V16. I’d compare it in difficulty to Terranova. If you were to give this V15, then the bouldering grades wouldn’t make much sense anymore. You’d have to downgrade all the V14 and most of the V15’s as well.

Watch the video of Ondra climbing Gioia here.

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Esperanza (V14) Repeated By Nalle Hukkataival

Posted December 6, 2011 at 10:00 am · Comments { 6 } ·

Nalle Hukkataival has repeated Fred Nicole’s Esperanza (V14) in Hueco Tanks, making him at least the 16th person to do so. Commenting about the problem on his 27crags ticklist he says that Esperanaza “must be the most classic contrived drop-off in the word [sic].” Watch him climb up and then drop-off in the video here.

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Midnight Express (V14) Repeated By Phil Schaal

Posted December 5, 2011 at 6:51 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Phil Schaal has done the 8th ascent1 of Midnight Express, a V14 in Colorado’s Boulder Canyon established by Ty Landman in 2007.  See footage of Schaal’s repeat, starting as Landman started, here.

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“Why On Earth Don’t I Live Here?”

Posted November 30, 2011 at 8:45 pm · Comments { 5 } ·

Writing for Five Ten about his recent time spent in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge1, Dave Graham unleashes another classic entry for the internet to enjoy:

I will admit, as this is my second trip to this place, I am blown away by the quality of the rock, the natural nature of the way the routes flow. The fact that I have never dedicated some time to climbing here confuses me, and makes me question whether I even know what the hell I am doing after climbing for 15 years.

Why on earth don’t I live here?
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And writing on her blog, Emily Harrington offers some pictures and some insights she gained from climbing with Graham the past couple of weeks:

Dave is one of those individuals who doesn’t train for climbing.  He doesn’t believe in it. Instead, he believes in his own creativity and self-expression, and it’s evident when he climbs.
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 He never stops believing in his ability to do a move or complete a route….As Dave has shown me, sometimes using your mind is more important than everything else.
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  1.  A time that has been plagued by fickle weather and trips to the mall to visit Hot Topic ↩
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