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Posted In: Bouldering
Tags: Featured
Climbers: Adam Ondra
Areas: Varazze
Posted In: Bouldering
Ethan Pringle is back at Mt. Clark, home to that one route first done by that one guy:
Projecting a route like this requires all of your attention, and having to devote all of your attention to a route like this can get really tiring really fast. At some point, you just want to get it over with. Of course, afterward you feel a mix of relief and loss. Relief that you’re done and the epic is over, and loss that this magnificent line doesn’t require your presence anymore. But for me, I think I’ll have to take a nice long break from serious route projects for a little while after this. Like Randy Levitt said, “It’s like a limestone El Cap.” Obviously, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but it does sort of convey the amount of work required to complete a project of this caliber.
Pringle is no stranger to Jumbo Love, having tried it even before its FA back in 2008. You can see some footage of his attempts here.
Adam Ondra Climbing Gioia (V16), 4.6 out of 5 based on 33 ratingsI don’t know about you, but I always try my best to climb close to an actual bathroom. In case you don’t, the Access Fund has a nice refresher on what to do when nature calls.
Adam Ondra Climbing Gioia (V16), 4.6 out of 5 based on 33 ratingsI guess it shouldn’t be surprising that with training like this that Canadian Yves Gravelle was able to climb his first V14 in Daniel Woods’ Echale in Clear Creek Canyon according to his 8a scorecard.
Adam Ondra Climbing Gioia (V16), 4.6 out of 5 based on 33 ratings© 2012 Climbing Narcissist. All Rights Reserved.




Now I know what I’m doing wrong when I’m climbing. Not screaming enough.
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Talk about climbing “a muerte”…
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Cool to see Core cheering him on. I really wish the video quality was a bit clearer.
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Agree. I wasn’t sure you could even film in non-HD these days. Either way, nice to see the footage so soon.
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Wait I thought it was the sit start he recently completed?
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Here’s Christian Core climbing “Gioia Sit Start 8C+” on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBivfjAU_fA
It appears to be more of an extension to Gioia 8A+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkG0VQbJrR8) than a SDS per se.
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It wouldn’t be the first time a problem deemed a “sit-start” was never really climbed from sitting on the ground . . . quite an issue in many cases for those concerned about doing a problem from the correct start.
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Always impressive to see how perfect his technique is, no matter how hard he’s trying. Can learn a lot from that
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His technique is really not perfect at all… it’s unique for sure, but not perfect.
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So whats perfect technique to you? I think near perfect technique comes with someone who climbs one of the hardest rock climbs in the world.
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i would like to see LD on film, compared to the OG (original Game), compared to this, compared to TSOW. line ‘em up.
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classic ondra. wobblin on the rock. the climber i love to hate to watch. or hate to love to watch. i think both
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Holy fuck that looked hard. Inspiring to watch. And very, very cool that Christian himself was there.
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So cool. I’m going to climb everyday now until I can do that.
Ryan
getontherocks.blogspot.com
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anyone know why the video was removed/if it can be found somewhere else?
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Good question. Seems a little late to unring this bell.
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Nice blog, I am very impressed on knowing that this information is being shared here and actively discussed by these commentators here. I do want to know certain updates though. !!!
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