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Double Mind Control (5.14c) Send Day

Double Mind Control (5.14c) Send Day

Posted February 17, 2012 at 2:06 pm · Comments { 11 } · Photo: Daila Ojeda on Mind Control by Keith Ladzinski

It was a big day on the big wall at Oliana yesterday as both Daila Ojeda and Joe Kinder grabbed repeats of Chris Sharma’s Mind Control1, a stunning 5.14c most famous for being onsighted by Adam Ondra.  Big Up Productions is still out in Spain so look for footage of all this Spain stuff at, presumably, this year’s Reel Rock Tour.
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 Footage of Ojeda working Mind Control last year can be seen in this Sterling Rope spot.

  1. Mind Control now has two check marks on the unofficial list of reasons a hard route can be downgraded—it’s been onsighted and Joe Kinder climbed it a woman climbed it—so look for that in the near future. ↩
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“Fuerza My People”

Posted February 16, 2012 at 2:52 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

In a post on Five Ten’s site Dave Graham reflects in his usual style on the last few months of 2011 which culminated with his FA of Memory is Parallax (V14):

In a day and age where each boulder problem is argued to be less and less significant (its not that hard, its not that cool, its not that tall, its not what I like, no one will go there, blah blah blah) I find it truly important to share when things do matter. When something I have done a boulder is significant.
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I took a lot from this experience as a person, even though I just climbed a rock, it was a massive milestone, and a true personal accomplishment, but it was because of how it fit into my life, where I was when I did it, and where I came from before I started trying it.
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Daniel Woods Wins North Face Cup, Climbs Hard Boulders In Japan

Daniel Woods Wins North Face Cup, Climbs Hard Boulders In Japan

Posted February 16, 2012 at 8:01 am · Comments { 2 } · Photo: Daniel Woods atop the podium at The North Face Cup in Japan by Eddie Gianelloni

Shortly after winning the 2012 Dark Horse Championships Daniel Woods made the trek to Japan to compete in The North Face Cup and sample some of Dai Koyamada’s roof testpieces at Shiobara.  Woods won The North Face Open, besting a strong field that included Sachi Amma, and repeated both Catharsis (V14) and Hydra (V13) in a single visit to Shiobara according to his 27Crags ticklist.  Pictures from the comp can be seen here and here.

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Men Of Routesetting 2012

Men Of Routesetting 2012

Posted February 13, 2012 at 7:14 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Looking for a last-minute gift for the special lady1 in your life?  For a mere $3, all of which is donated to the Access Fund, you can download the 2012 edition of the Men Of Routesetting calendar.  Flowers are going to be dead in a few days.
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 The MORS calendar lasts all year long…

  1.  Or man ↩
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New Free Climb On Mexican Big Wall By Alex Honnold

Posted February 13, 2012 at 10:08 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Climbing.com has the report on a trip Alex Honnold, Will Stanhope and Paul McSorley took to Mexico to climb on El Gran Trono Blanco.
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 Among other things the trip yielded a new 11 pitch 5.
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13 that was freed by Honnold:

“The route is fairly runout and will most likely never be downrated, if you know what I mean,” said photographer Andrew Burr. “It was mega-hot, and watching Alex negotiate the roof and heinously thin slab traverses in the heat was some of the most impressive leading either myself or Stanhope has ever witnessed.”

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Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One

Posted February 9, 2012 at 1:33 pm · Comments { 12 } ·

Ok.  Horrible title.  Forgive me.

Anyway, Jimmy Webb is about a week into his first trip to Font.  Last week he managed that one day ascent of Kheops Assis (V14), and according to his 8a scorecard this week he managed a relatively quick repeat of Dave Graham’s The Island a once V15 but now maybe V14 at Coquibus Rumont.  This latest ascent puts him at 99 problems V10 or harder in the past 12 months which is notable for being 99 more V10s or harder than I’ve done in my entire life1.

Update:  Webb added a repeat of Gecko Assis (generally V14 but Webb thought V13) to close out his trip.  Four V13’s or harder in his first 6 days climbing in Font.
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 A world record!!

  1.  Unless I can count that 1 problem that is V10 for some people but not V10 for other people.  Then I’m only 98 behind! Yes! ↩
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Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth

Posted February 8, 2012 at 4:10 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

Ben Spannuth, who recently started a blog at LT11, grabbed a rare repeat Golden Direct at the Cathedral in Southern Utah according to his 8a scorecard.  Golden Direct was first done in 2008 by Joe Kinder at a suggested grade of 5.
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14d and was subsequently repeated by the likes of Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist.  Having climbed five other routes in the 5.14c/d range in the past 6 months, Spannuth felt Golden Direct warranted a grade of 5.14c.

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