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Risks From Ibuprofen Use

Posted December 27, 2012 at 9:59 am · Comments { 19 } ·

Heads up to all you pill poppers out there:

…a valuable new study joins growing evidence that ibuprofen and similar anti-inflammatory painkillers taken before a workout don’t offer any benefit and may be causing disagreeable physical damage instead, particularly to the intestines.

And:

“The idea is just entrenched in the athletic community that ibuprofen will help you to train better and harder,” Dr. Nieman said. “But that belief is simply not true. There is no scientifically valid reason to use ibuprofen before exercise and many reasons to avoid it.

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Tunnel Creek

Posted December 26, 2012 at 7:38 am · Comments { 5 } ·

I feel almost cheated that I read this article about a devastating avalanche at a backcountry skiiing area in Washington called Tunnel Creek on my iPhone first because The New York Times‘ presentation of this story is simply amazing.  It’s stunning how they’ve managed to convey this tragic story.

While I was reading the story I couldn’t help but think about how aspects of this sad story relate to our sport of rock climbing.
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 Much like groups of skiiers, groups of climbers are just as susceptible to the trappings of groupthink.  So while we don’t have the level of objective hazard that is present in a sport like backcountry skiing, our sport is not without its danger.
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 Indeed, while climbing has been and will always be a potentially dangerous sport, the reality is that we are exposing ourselves to ever-increasing amounts of subjective hazards with the increased reliance on things like fixed gear.

This isn’t meant to spark a debate over the merits of fixed gear but rather to serve as a reminder that being cognizant and aware of what it is we’re doing out there could not be more important.
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 Nobody wants to be “that guy” and “ruin” the fun for everyone else, but when you listen to the heart-wrenching reactions of the people involved in the Tunnel Creek story as they hear that their friends and loved ones aren’t coming home, one can’t help but think that erring on the side of caution is always worth it.

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Alex Honnold Interviewed On ClimbTalk Radio

Posted December 20, 2012 at 8:00 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Emanating from the Boulder bubble on the local AM station, ClimbTalk Radio has been on my radar since its inception, but I can’t say I’ve heard too many of the shows.  Since I don’t live in Boulder the only way to hear the show was to read co-host Dave McAllister‘s insane transcripts or to navigate the station’s maze-like website to download mp3 files of the episodes.  Lame1.

The lameness has subsided now that ClimbTalk is available as a podcast through iTunes or whatever your podcast client of choice happens to be2.  I’ve caught up on a few of the recent episodes, including the interview with Alex Honnold as he sat on a portaledge 8 pitches up El Cap and the group discussion with LT11’s Jon Glassberg and Jordan Shipman, Jamie Emerson and Adam Markert.

The Honnold conversation was funny, insightful and overall very entertaining.  Try not to have any food in your mouth when they discuss the finer points of “man spooning” on portaledges.  The group discussion was good and had a lot of promise, but host Mike Brooks’ penchant for talking over guests the entire show to repeatedly identify who was speaking marred the flow of the conversation quite a bit.

You can check out the full archives on the ClimbTalk website or subscribe via RSS or the podcast client of your choice.

  1.  That downloading the shows was so hard, not that I don’t live in Boulder.
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     Although that’s kind of lame too.
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    ↩
  2.  I use Instacast on my iPhone ↩
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Productive Months For 11-Year-Old Mirko Caballero

Posted December 19, 2012 at 6:50 am · Comments { 5 } ·

11-year-old Mirko Caballero blogs about the past two months which have taken him from the Red River Gorge to Smith Rock to Pinnacles National Monument, a series of trips that saw him redpoint a couple of 5.14s, flash some 5.13s and lay the groundwork for what promises to be a very promising future.
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 I think we’re going to be hearing a lot more about this kid in the coming years…

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Comb Through DPM’s Stash For Free

Posted December 13, 2012 at 7:23 am · Comments { 6 } ·

It’s been about a year now since DPM put a portion of their video collection behind a paywall, and somewhat unsurprisingly that paywall has now come down provided you’re willing to create a free account on DPM.  Now’s your chance to catch up on the videos you might have missed in addition to a new video featuring Ashima Shiraishi’s time in the Red River Gorge.

I stopped checking out the videos pretty early on, but of the ones I did see I thought the piece on Jason Kehl’s FA of Count to Six and Die in Hueco and, since I’m a sucker for videos with Dave Graham, any of the Warrior Path series videos are worth checking out.

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Klem Loskot Is Back

Posted December 11, 2012 at 3:26 pm · Comments { 2 } ·

Klem Loskot, a bouldering pioneer in the late 90’s, was immortalized for me and many others when he was showcased in the early Dosage movies1. After taking several years off from climbing in the public eye, Loskot is back. He’s’ back to establishing hard boulders near his home in Austria, and Rock & Ice caught up with him to see what he’s been up to:

I got the passion back by climbing in my home woods and I felt like it was 1989 and it was nostalgic. I had no sponsors and no publicity and three years ago I wanted to keep it the same. Today I feel like sharing my experience.

This site is almost six years old and today is the first time I’ve ever posted about Loskot. Now we know why.

  1. I still try to do my best Klem Loskot impression at the gym when I’m encouraging Mrs. Narc to try hard. Needless to say, it worked a lot better for Klem than it did for me. ↩
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John Long Injured In Gym Fall

Posted December 10, 2012 at 5:14 pm · Comments { 34 } ·

Shit:

Climbing’s best-known author, pioneer and original Stonemaster, John Long was seriously injured on November 29 at the Rockreation climbing gym in Los Angeles when his bowline came untied and he fell feet to the floor, suffering a compound fracture to his lower left leg/ankle.

Before everyone starts decrying his use of a bowline — although there is certainly merit to the argument against using one — this is not the first instance I’ve heard recently where a climber decked from not finishing their knot, bowline or otherwise.
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 It bears repeating that no matter who you are and no matter how long you’ve been climbing, you can never double-check yourself and your partners enough before leaving the ground.
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