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→ No Big Deal∞

Posted April 29, 2013 at 11:00 am · Comments { 8 } ·

Alex Honnold, writing for La Sportiva about his solo of three walls in Zion in a day back in March:

I could write several different essays about the day; it’s given me a ton to think about. One would be how funny it is that climbing media didn’t even touch the story and that no one seems to care about it. Soloing Astroman and the Rostrum in 2007 generated all kinds of news and video bits. This Zion link up, which is infinitely harder and more cutting edge, doesn’t get mentioned. That’s what I get for soloing too much.

I guess I’ll forgive him for not seeing my post about the day. Or Climbing’s article about it. But yeah, other than that he might actually have a point considering how much publicity most of his scrambling garners these days? But then again, isn’t he usually the first one to say all of this is “no big deal”?

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Alex Honnold

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→ FFA Of Chemical Ali (5.14a) By Kristin Yurdin∞

Posted April 25, 2013 at 12:01 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

Nice write-up by DPM about 42-year-old Smith Rock local Kristin Yurdin climbing her first 5.14a with a repeat of Chemical Ali:

[husband] Ian describes a crucial part of Kristin’s training program as finger-boarding, tread-walling, cutting stuff, grilling things, lifting heavy French fry baskets and carrying cases of wine up 12-foot ladders.

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Kristin Yurdin

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Smith Rock

→ Tributes To Layton Kor∞

Posted April 25, 2013 at 8:52 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Nice collection of tributes to Layton Kor over at Climbing.com, including this one from Steve Komito:

My clearest memories of these adventures include the feeling of sand in my ears and eyes, the sight of Layton’s enormous rock shoes in stirrups over my head, tiny belay stances hung over a void so vast that at times it seemed I must be looking downward into the heavens, and always, the sense that The Force was with me.

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Layton Kor

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→ Layton Kor Dead At Age 74∞

Posted April 22, 2013 at 4:23 pm · Comments { 2 } ·

Layton Kor, one of the most prolific and accomplished American climbers of the 1960s, has died at age 74. Kor had suffered from kidney failure and prostate cancer. A resident of Kingman, Arizona, he died during the night of April 21.
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RIP.

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Layton Kor

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→ Andrea Hah Repeats Punks In The Gym (5.14a)∞

Posted April 21, 2013 at 11:03 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

It’s been a busy time for notable repeats of historically significant 5.14a’s, what with Paige Claassen and Drew Ruana repeating America’s first 5.14a To Bolt Or Not To Be and now Aussie Andrea Hah doing the 2nd female ascent of the first 5.14a in the world, Wolfgang Gullich’s Punks In The Gym at Mt. Arapiles.

Nice interview with Andrea here as well.

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Andrea Hah

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Mount Arapiles

→ 5.14c Onsight By Magnus Midtbø In Rodellar∞

Posted April 18, 2013 at 11:12 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Nice write-up with pictures from Henning Wang by Magnus Midtbø about his onsight of Cosi fan tutti (5.14c) in Rodellar, Spain:

It was a very satisfying feeling to for once win a desperate on-sight battle expecially since only 4 other climbers have ever on-sighted an 8c+ route before (Patxi Usobiaga, Adam Ondra, Alexander Megos (9a) and Ramon Julian Puigblanque). I feel like I’m in the shape of my life after investing so much time in Neanderthal. Unfortunately it didn’t go this season, but at least I got to put the shape in good use.

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