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→ Unfinished Business∞

Posted May 7, 2013 at 2:23 pm · Comments { 6 } ·

Steve Bechtel, writing about a first ascent that was done in Wyoming recently:

When Micah first walked up to the climb last year, the face had already been bolted. There were anchors on top. It was a ready-to-climb classic.  Like many of the other hard and great yet-to-be-climbed projects, someone had tried it before. That someone was Todd Skinner.

…snip…

Below is a list of a few of the most significant Skinner projects still awaiting first ascents. This is by no means exhaustive.
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Any takers?

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→ Climbing Banned On Basalt Columns In Armenia∞

Posted May 7, 2013 at 9:11 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Bad news for anyone psyched about making the trip to Armenia to climb on the incredibly unique looking basalt columns that were on the cover of Rock & Ice a few years back:

By this statement we want to inform all the climbers around the world that climbing on any Basalt Columns of Armenia is banned, so they won’t make expenses and travel a long way in vain.

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→ Underwhelmed∞

Posted May 6, 2013 at 8:47 am · Comments { 11 } ·

Jonathan Siegrist, writing about the end of his time in Las Vegas for the season as well as a brief visit he made to the much-hyped limestone in Ely, NV:

To be downright honest I was underwhelmed – but I also went there with pretty big expectations. There is some potential there, and the Mondo Cave is absolutely enormous, but for now I feel like my time and energy can be better spent elsewhere.
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The cave has great rock, but it also has a lot of poor rock – logistically it’s a little strange.

The expectations game in climbing can be a bit of a mind-f*ck for all of us, not just professionals.  So much of our experience upon first visiting an area is colored by the expectations set prior to that visit by stories and beta gleaned from others as well as a natural excitement I think we all have when seeing a new place.
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 Often times this leads to an underwhelming feeling like the one described by Siegrist, but as with many things in life first impressions are just that.

It’ll be interesting to see what comes of the climbing in Ely over the next decade or two.

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→ Crux Crush Interviews Colette McInerney∞

Posted May 2, 2013 at 3:01 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

Crux Crush, one of the better new climbing sites to crop up of late, has a nice interview with Colette McInerney who recently climbed her first 5.14a in Oliana with a repeat of China Crisis:

In general, and definitely in the climbing world as well, there seems to be a lot of need for people to put things in boxes and control what they mean or what they are. Climbing is definitely a sport that doesn’t need those confines.
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You make climbing what you want, sexy, dirty, in a gym, on a mountain, and take from it what you want. All the other stuff really doesn’t matter.

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→ Returning To The Sport That Almost Killed Her∞

Posted May 2, 2013 at 7:59 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Amazing story of recovery by Rannevig Aamodt who was badly injured when she took a ground fall while sport climbing in Turkey about a year ago:

Twelve months have passed since I hit the ground from that 15m free-fall. I broke my pelvis into three pieces and shattered 3 vertebrae and my elbow (compound fracture). I dislocated and fractured both ankles (one was compound), and destroyed a number of bones in my feet and legs.

Aamodt has since returned to climbing at a high level with redpoints up to 5.
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13.

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→ 5.15a FA By Alex Megos In The Frankenjura∞

Posted May 1, 2013 at 10:59 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Alex Megos makes his first First Ascent count with his recent FA of Classified in Germany’s Frankenjura:

The new route, a ~20m fiesta of small shallow pockets followed by even smaller shallower ones, is a direct exit to Guido Köstermeyer’s Des Mos, 8b+, and was bolted by Christian Bindhammer some 10 years ago.

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→ Midnight Lightning’s Lightning Bolt Gets Chopped∞

Posted April 30, 2013 at 9:55 am · Comments { 50 } ·

James Lucas, writing about why he removed the iconic chalk lightning bolt outline from beneath Midnight Lightning in Yosemite:

Over thirty years, with every passing ascent, the lightning bolt became less of a testament to a remarkable ascent, of lightning striking at midnight.  The chalk transformed into a trademark, another tourist attraction for passing climbers. The magic left the bolt years ago.

The magic may have left the bolt for Lucas “years ago”, but myself and many others don’t appear to share that sentiment.  Each time I’ve visited the Valley and seen the Columbia boulder and its trademark lightning bolt there was a sense of history that came along with seeing it.  I agree that the chalk lightning bolt had become a trademark, but to me this was a good thing, not a bad thing.

The new bolt remains slightly duller than the last incarnation.
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  How long will it remain that way?
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 Does climbing need these trademarks?

My guess is that it won’t stay this way for long.

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