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→ Manslaughter Charges Filed In Tito Traversa Accident∞

Posted August 26, 2013 at 9:50 am · Comments { 8 } ·

DPM does some rough translation work on this article, published in an Italian newspaper, which indicates that five people have apparently been served with manslaughter charges in the July death of 12-year-old Tito Traversa.  Given the language barrier, the dearth of real detail about what happened in the accident, other than the well-publicized faulty draw setup, and the fact that this is taking place in the European legal system, it’s hard to make any definitive statement about what this all means other than the obvious which is that none of this will help bring Traversa back to life.  Other than that it will be interesting to see how this story plays out.
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→ Footage Of Adam Ondra’s FA Of Move∞

Posted August 26, 2013 at 9:33 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Do not adjust your computer.  This is just how fast Adam Ondra climbs these days.

On a related note:  could anyone else make something like the bottom part of Move look so easy yet have so much credibility when calling it hard 5.
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14?

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→ Caldwell, Mills Climb First 5.14 On The Diamond∞

Posted August 22, 2013 at 4:06 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

Impressive:

Tommy Caldwell and Joe Mills have redpointed the first 5.14 route up the Diamond on Longs Peak, the premier granite wall in Colorado’s high mountains. The two free-climbed the full Dunn-Westbay aid line in four rope-stretching pitches, with an 80-meter crux second pitch (5.14a).

It’s also worth giving credit to Caldwell and Jonathan Siegrist who gave up their efforts on the route last week to assist with a nearby rescue operation underway to help a badly inured climber.

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→ Yet Another 5.15 In Flatanger For Adam Ondra∞

Posted August 22, 2013 at 9:54 am · Comments { 3 } ·

Once again Adam Ondra has established a route in the mid-5.15 range in the Hanshelleren cave in Flatanger, Norway, this time with the route he’s calling Move.  Here’s how he describes the experience on his 8a scorecard:

9b/b+ or just HARD 9b. Took me 2 weeks and half, while feeling strong and with bomber conditions. This route was hard for me, one my hardest, though Change is probably harder to repeat, as it fits my style WAY MORE

This is the 3rd 5.15b or harder Ondra has established in Norway in the past year, and he’s now done 26 5.15’s which is…well…a world record lot.

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→ Mario Richard Dies In BASE Jump Accident∞

Posted August 20, 2013 at 12:28 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Sad news:

Mario Richard, husband of rock climber Steph Davis, died August 18 while wingsuit flying in Italy’s Dolomites.

Mrs. Narc and I have a small connection to Steph having met her briefly a few years back, so it was with particular dismay that we received this news.
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 Our thoughts are with Steph and everyone who knew Mario.
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→ Between Rocklands And A Hard Place∞

Posted August 20, 2013 at 9:45 am · Comments { 6 } ·

Why???

Discarded climbing tape and litter are an everyday find at the climbing areas; faeces and toilet paper are hidden in caves and under rocks; and huge tick lines and graffiti are abundant. It’s important to stress that the majority of climbers are considerate of the environment when at the crags, but there are always exceptions to the rule.
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The closure of one area here in Rocklands is solely due to us and, if we’re not careful, we will lose this stunning destination altogether.

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→ First 5.14d In Australia By Alex Megos∞

Posted August 19, 2013 at 10:26 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Great report with pictures from Simon Carter detailing how visiting climber Alex Megos ushered in Australia’s first 5.14d with his FA of Retired Extremely Dangerous in the Blue Mountains:

After taking the big whipper from the crux six or seven times Alex became frustrated. He lowered to the ground, pulled the rope, re-tied and immediately started climbing again.
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Somehow this tactic worked because this time he got through the crux — and it was a mighty fight to the end!
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