Toshi Takeuchi has done the 4th ascent of Paul Robinson’s Meadowlark Lemon (V15) in Red Rock, NV, his first of the grade and just his fourth V14 or harder.
With the likes of Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods and Nalle Hukkataival set to visit Red Rocks in the coming weeks I would expect to see this problem get a couple more repeats before the end of the year.
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39-year-old Muriel Sarkany has added her name to a short list of women to climb 5.14d with her repeat of Punt-X in France’s Gorges du Loup last week. Her comments to 8a:
It is a dream which becomes reality! To make one 9a, I dreamed about it and I did not think that it would become true one day. I looked a lot to find this route and as soon as I tried it, I felt that one day I could make it. I did not make all the moves and I couldn’t do three sequences without stopping. The holds are small and the moves are bouldery but it wasn’t morpho for me;-)
Prior to this ascent, Sarkany had won the overall World Cup title five times and repeated routes up to 5.14c. Impressive work!
You can see video of Sean McColl repeating this route here.
Really enjoyed this story from Corey Rich about how he came to capture some images of Chris Sharma on his unrepeated route Three Degrees Of Separation in Ceuse, France:
The real story behind this image, however, is the climb that Chris ultimately created. This route, this seemingly nondescript line that Chris may have never bothered bolting had we not approached him with this project, ended up becoming one of Sharma’s great masterpieces.
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The route was not just an easy “5.
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13 or something,” as Chris had thought. In fact, it ended up being a really unique and really hard 5.14d that is distinguished by three massive, consecutive dynos (huge jumps between holds).
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Chris spent that week working on the line, sending it after a few days of effort. He called the route Three Degrees of Separation in reference to the three dynos.
See also Rich’s post about an image he captured of Sharma on the famous arch in Mallorca.
Nice interview with Adam Ondra by Fitz Cahall as part of Ondra’s being nominated for Nat Geo’s Adventurer of the Year:
I think sport climbing is still a relatively young sport. Not so many people are really focused into really structured and sophisticated training, and I think that there’s still a lot of room to improve. I can imagine, easily, routes 9c [5.15d], 10a [5.16]. I can describe them, and I think I have even bolted some of the climbs that could have such a grade.
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You can vote for Ondra or one of the other nominees here.
Back in September a woman fell to her death while climbing at a gym in Texas, and as speculated at the time it was due to improper use of the gym’s auto belay equipment:
In the report, witnesses told police that Mailloux “looked like she knew what she was doing.” And even though “she thought she was clipped in” to her rope line, in fact, “the belay system was not attached to (her) harness.
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”When she got to the top of the wall, she, “let go and fell to the ground.”
While this is the first fatality I’ve heard of resulting from this sort of thing, I’ve unfortunately heard of many similar cases, some resulting in serious injuries, of a climber falling to the ground after not actually securing themselves to an auto belay system. Even though you or I probably can’t understand how this could happen, the fact that this problem occurs, oftentimes to experienced climbers, tells me there is something worth paying attention to here.
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I know that my awareness of this issue has made me extra paranoid each time I go to use an auto belay, or any belay system for that matter.
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If it happens in Kentucky then it’s climbing related, right? Right?
Jared: Use to visit this site daily. Miss you Narc! Hope ...
chris marcolini: Did you ever find the falling block?...
Nate: The narc lives on, at least as an archive. Miss th...
J: Two slings half inch webbing 24 inch sewn slings w...
Animull89: So gnarly that he did that twice...I remember the ...
