Nice interview with Adam Ondra by Fitz Cahall as part of Ondra’s being nominated for Nat Geo’s Adventurer of the Year:

 I think sport climbing is still a relatively young sport. Not so many people are really focused into really structured and sophisticated training, and I think that there’s still a lot of room to improve. I can imagine, easily, routes 9c [5.15d], 10a [5.16]. I can describe them, and I think I have even bolted some of the climbs that could have such a grade.
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You can vote for Ondra or one of the other nominees here.