PlanetMountain caught up with Alex Megos after he repeated the legendary Action Directe (5.14d) in just a few hours this past weekend:
Yes, the thought [of trying to flash the route] had occurred to me but I then quickly decided that this was fairly unrealistic. The dyno at the start is known to be really difficult and it’s proved to be a big problem for many of those who’ve repeated the route and are by far better at dynos then I am. Climbing it in a day was a big enough challenge!
Nice write up by Martin Keller about his recent FA of Gepresster Hase, a proposed V15 in Sustenpass, Switzerland:
But after a wild party night (till 3am) I finally got this one try for which I had waited so long. This try on which I got that exact rhythm that made it possible to hit every hold perfect and aloud me to top out the best and hardest boulder I ever did and put up the FA of”Gepresster Hase”, Sustenpass, Swizzy.
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Couldn’t be happier 😉
It’s worth keeping in mind that it was just a couple years back that Keller ripped his hamstring from the bone and had to take some eight months off from climbing.
Climbing.com has a nice report on the recent “Sufferfest 2” undertaken by Alex Honnold & Cedar Wright:
Now they have completed Sufferfest 2, a 700-mile ride through Canyonlands in Colorado, Utah, New Mexico, and Arizona, bagging desert towers along the way.
Over three weeks, the two climbed 45 towers—a total that normally takes years even for hard-core desert aficionados.
Heather Weidner, writing on her blog about her recent repeat of the notorious trad line Musta Been High (5.13 R) in Eldorado Canyon:
Some might say I Musta Been High to climb this route, but I did not take advantage of our local Cannabis dispensaries. Musta Been High is a traditional climb in Eldorado Canyon rated 13c R. It has a reputation for being hard and scary, with most gear so small that it may not hold a fall.
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Interesting news today about one of my favorite companies:
On Tuesday, Prana Living, a yoga gear maker, was sold to Columbia Sportswear for $190 million.
Prana will join Columbia’s stable of sports apparel brands, which include its eponymous mountain gear line, the upscale Mountain Hardwear, and Sorel, the boot maker. Columbia, based in Portland, Ore., has a market value of $2.86 billion, but its shares were up 6.5 percent in after-hours trading on news of the deal for Prana, and good first-quarter earnings.
I’m not actually sponsored by any companies1, but I often like to joke that I am sponsored by Prana provided I ignore my credit card statements. I love their clothes and basically try to only engage in activities, be it work or play, where I can wear their stuff.
Knee jerk reactions to this kind of deal in the outdoor space are not usually met with a lot of optimism2, but I’m hoping for the best.
Jeremy Collins has long been one of my favorite artists in the outdoor world.
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In fact, Mrs. Narc and I have a print of his hanging over our fireplace, and it’s one of my favorite things we own.
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Collins’ latest project is DRAWN, a Kickstarter-backed project to release a book and a film about four trips he went on:
Over the course of four years, with my wife’s blessing, I set out on all four of the journeys; from the jungles of Venezuela, to the China-Mongolian Border, to the northern reaches of Canada, and closer to home in Yosemite Valley.
Each journey had a deep personal story for me, from the death of a friend, to the celebration of life, the love of my children, and the struggle of a tribe. I made many new friends, and their story became mine. I painted a schoolhouse in Yunek Village with the children and installed solar power for their emergency radio. I built a staircase in the Yukon to pay for a helicopter ride. I said farewell to a friend by releasing his ashes on each summit.
Along the way I filled five sketchbooks with art drawn from the experience. These journals are what inspire the story. These journals are what comprise the book.
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The project just reached its funding goal over the weekend, but it’s not too late for you to get in on the project over at its Kickstarter page.
Bad news about potential future development in Getu, China, an area made famous in climbing circles by the 2011 Petzl Roc Trip:
Unfortunately the peaceful environment I recalled from my last visit in 2011 has been completely altered due to the construction of a huge parking lot and an elevator that will transport people from the parking lot to directly below the arch. I had heard about this from friends and had quietly accepted it as yet another example of how the local governments try to encourage tourism via huge building developments, yet this development is often too ephemeral for the villages in rural China and probably jeopardise forever a beautiful and complex natural environment.
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