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→ First 5.14c For Nina Caprez∞

Posted June 18, 2014 at 8:30 am · Comments { 1 } ·

27 year-old Swiss climber Nina Caprez has done her first 5.14c with a repeat of Hélix au pays des merveilles at France’s Pic Saint Loup:

“I fell in love”, Nina raves about the line. “This huge limestone cave was one of the best things I’ve ever seen in my life. The quality of rock is unbelievable: beside pure tufas you have perfect crimps, pockets…” From the moment she abseiled down into the cave ‘Pic de Saint Loup’ north of Montpellier, France, she wanted to climb on the huge fat tufa in the middle of the wall. “And I was a lucky girl – there was a route that was topping out on this huge tufa – the Hélix.

There is some footage of her on the route that can be seen here.

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→ Five Ten Camp Four Shoe∞

Posted June 17, 2014 at 9:00 am · Comments { 8 } ·

Nice review of my favorite non-climbing pair of shoes I own, the Five Ten Camp Four:

It’s nice to have a few time-tested items in your arsenal that you can simply order brand new every few years with full confidence in what you’re going to receive. No shopping around, no sizing up or deliberating over various products, you just know. Well, this shoe is that piece of gear for me, and my fourth pair just arrived in the mail yesterday.
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I’ve had two or three pairs of these shoes over the last several years and I’ve used them for just about everything from walking around town, hiking 14ers, easy 5th class climbing and many days scrambling around talus fields chasing the latest bouldering project.
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 They stick like glue to rock, they can take a ton of abuse and they last for a long time1.

  1.  Except the laces, those never last ↩
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→ On The Circuit∞

Posted June 11, 2014 at 8:14 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Nice piece by the inimitable BearCam for Rock & Ice about the incredible concentration of hard bouldering along Bear Lake Road in Rocky Mountain National Park:

Bear Lake Road is Rocky Mountain National Park’s busiest byway, and must be driven with the utmost care, because tourists can and do stop anywhere. Oh, is that an elk? What most of these travelers don’t know is that if you drive this road starting from the Stanley Hotel—made famous in the classic horror flick “The Shining”—and continue through the north side of the park via Sheep Lake and down through a bit of Trail Ridge, you will have passed through the highest density of difficult boulder problems in North America—all within minutes of the car. Some problems are so close to the road that tourists might slow down and take a photo of you.

Hard to believe it’s been almost 4 years now since Daniel Woods did the FA of Hypnotized Minds, and it has yet to see a repeat despite sustained effort from some of the world’s best boulderers.

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→ Psicobloc Masters Series Returns August 6-8∞

Posted June 9, 2014 at 10:24 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Exciting news:

Today the Psicobloc Masters Series announced the schedule of events for the Psicobloc (Spanish for “crazy bouldering,” or what is commonly referred to as “deep-water soloing”) competition in Park City, Utah. In cooperation with the summer Outdoor Retailer tradeshow, the event will again be held at the Utah Olympic Park in their freestyle aerial training pool. Clif Bar has stepped in as the title sponsor this year.

…snip…

August 6th will be a qualifying round where aspiring climbers can compete for an open spot for the finals.  Spectating during this round will be open to the public at no charge. Tickets for Thursday, August 7 and Friday, August 8 will be available starting the first week of July at psicocomp.com.  The wall will also be open for public climbing beginning around the first week of July, and will remain open through August, so anyone can have an opportunity to experience the thrill of deep-water soloing.

Consider your Instagram feeds to be on notice…

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→ “Like a banshee”∞

Posted June 4, 2014 at 8:09 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Jonathan Siegrist, in an email exchange with Rock & Ice regarding his recent repeat of Biographie:

R&I: Did you scream like Sharma when you stuck the jug near the top?

JS: Like a banshee.

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→ Just Do It∞

Posted June 3, 2014 at 12:10 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Paige Claassen, writing on her blog about her recent send of Just Do It (5.14c):

Just Do It was the culmination of all those years of practice. No more half committed efforts.
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No more wobbling. No fear, no doubts, no second guessing. I had to climb confidently and I had to try harder than I’d ever tried in my life.

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→ The Climbing Accident That Almost Killed Me∞

Posted May 29, 2014 at 8:42 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Sobering story on CruxCrush:

I did not always climb with a helmet, and my life changed forever when a large block of rock fell on my head. The resulting traumatic brain injury almost killed me.
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Even though it happened six and a half years ago, I deal with the effects of that accident everyday. Accidents happen. And what happened to me does not have to happen to you.
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I am sharing my experience to remind climbers how important that silly looking “brain bucket” is. I have spoken about the facts of the accident multiple times, but right now I want to talk about how I still feel the effects of a decision I made when I was 26. A decision that is still hurting me at 32 and that I will be feeling the effects of for the rest of my life.
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