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Video Friday – 8/9/2013

Video Friday – 8/9/2013

Posted August 9, 2013 at 7:12 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The highest rated videos of the past week…

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→ The Almighty∞

Posted August 8, 2013 at 2:08 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

Jonathan Siegrist writes about his experience repeating a mixed route called The Almighty (5.14a) in Teton Canyon, WY that was first done by local Ty Mack in 2011:

This is one of my favorite ascents to date – I feel that it is my hardest trad lead and it was a really cool process to get there. Ty suggested .14a for The Almighty and I think personally I would suggest .14b for the short person method through the lower and upper cruxes. Because of size we really did climb the route entirely different.
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Ty’s effort here isreally sick, and I want to make a point to congratulate him again for his efforts opening The Almighty — there really is nothing else like it!

It’s always cool to read these stories of off the radar routes established by off the radar bone crushers.

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→ Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2013 Climbing Report∞

Posted August 8, 2013 at 9:51 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Nice recap over at Splitter Choss of  the latest and greatest in climbing gear that was unveiled at last week’s Outdoor Retailer Trade Show.
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 The Millet Opposite rope looks interesting, and you know I’m a sucker for Five Ten bringing back old shoes. Now if only they would bring back the  V10s…

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→ Two V13s In Rocklands By Anna Stöhr∞

Posted August 7, 2013 at 12:01 pm · Comments { 4 } ·

Impressive trip to Rocklands for Anna Stöhr as she repeats The Power Of One (V13) and The Vice (V13):

Once again, Anna has broken through the glass ceiling and set a new precedent for female bouldering, by sending these two lines, needing only three days to crack, The Power of One, and four for, The Vice. Hats off to Anna for raising the bar one notch higher!

Not bad to go along with her six bouldering World Cup victories so far this year.

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→ Another 5.15 In Flatanger For Adam Ondra∞

Posted August 7, 2013 at 9:49 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Adam Ondra continues to use the Hanshelleren cave in Flatanger, Norway as his personal 5.15 playground, this time with the FA of Iron Curtain (5.15b).  Lest you think 5.15b has become “easy” for him, he assures PlanetMountain that this is not the case:

9b (5.15b) standard for me? I wish! No, 9b is still a really hard route, certainly not something I would do in an afternoon without too much effort.

According to the same article, Ondra has multiple 5.15+ projects lined up and ready including one that is almost 200 feet long!

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Jimmy Webb Finishes South Africa Trip Strong

Jimmy Webb Finishes South Africa Trip Strong

Posted August 6, 2013 at 9:58 am · Comments { 1 } · Photo: Jimmy Webb flashing Shosholoza (V11) in Rocklands by Kasia Pietras

Before his victory at the Psicobloc Masters Series event, Jimmy Webb was busy wrapping up his visit to South Africa in much the same way he started

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→ DiGiulian, Webb Win Inaugural Pisobloc Masters Series Event∞

Posted August 5, 2013 at 11:13 am · Comments { 41 } ·

Climbing has the report from the inaugural Psicobloc Masters Series event held Friday night that saw Sasha DiGiulian and Jimmy Webb both walk away ,000 richer for besting the competition in their respective fields.
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 I have yet to have any time to actually watch the comp myself, but I get the impression that overall it went off very well with some common complaints surfacing regarding things like announcers and other aspects of the broadcast that can always be improved on.
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 Most tellingly, the sentiment I saw from viewers and competitors alike seemed to be:  when will people stop posting pictures of the wall on Instagram when can we do this again?  Catch a replay of the event here.

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