2nd Ascent Of Art Attack (5.14b) By Paige Claassen

Posted October 2, 2013 at 8:59 am · Comments { 5 } ·

More success for Paige Claassen on the Lead Now tour

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Paige Claassen

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Val Masino

→ Government Shutdown Closes Climbing Areas Across the Country∞

Posted October 1, 2013 at 1:21 pm · Comments { 5 } ·

The Access Fund has setup a page to make it easier for you to let Congress know how you feel about them shutting down the government and the National Parks we all pay for.

The good news is that in an effort to save face the House is apparently considering passing some small bills to do things like re-open national parks. The bad news is…well…this is still Congress we’re talking about here.

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→ Chris Sharma To Join Dawn Wall Team∞

Posted October 1, 2013 at 9:38 am · Comments { 28 } ·

So…this is happening (maybe…hopefully) :

Chris Sharma will join Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson, and Jonathan Siegrist for this fall’s attempts on the Dawn Wall, a multi-year project to create the world’s hardest big-wall free climb. The team will begin working on the Dawn Wall this week, pending resolution of the federal government shutdown, which has closed Yosemite National Park.

I’ll be honest, I did a triple take and checked the date on my calendar when I saw this.
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Not because I don’t believe that Sharma could excel at this sort of thing, but rather because this is an insane team of climbers to have together on the wall.
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Add Dave Graham to the mix and my head might explode.

This leaves us no choice, call your congressman and demand they support Dawn Wall 2013.

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Chris Sharma

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→ Magic Places∞

Posted October 1, 2013 at 8:19 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Justin Roth, writing on his blog The Stone Mind about the magic of places like Hueco Tanks:

How could I go on doing something that didn’t inspire me in a world where places like this exist? I knew I had to make my way towards something more fulfilling, even if that meant multiplying the uncertainty in my life.

…

Climbers, like artists, are an individualistic bunch. We chafe against rules and restrictions — I’m certainly no exception, but I also believe in the strange magic of places like Hueco.
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I’ve felt that magic as well, and I’ve been thinking a lot about this post the past several months as my move to Colorado has definitely multiplied the uncertainty in my life.
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However, it has also brought great fulfillment as I’ve been able to experience places like RMNP regularly¹ and feel the magic of the mountains in a way that never would have been possible had I not moved here.

Before that whole flood and subsequent government shutdown put a real damper on that ↩

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Productive Week In The Frankenjura For Gabri Moroni

Posted September 30, 2013 at 10:47 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Last week was a productive one for Italy’s Gabri Moroni in the Frankenjura as he notched repeats of Sever The Wicked Hand (5.14d), The Elder Statesman (5.14d) and Classified (5.14d/5.15a). That last route is the one opened by Alex Megos back in May.

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Gabriele Moroni

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Frankenjura

Visit To RMNP

Posted September 29, 2013 at 6:58 pm · Comments { 4 } ·

Ever since the flood a few weeks back a lot of people have been wondering how RMNP and the boulders it holds fared during the big storm. Most of the Park reopened late this week, and since I have been cooped up at home since the beginning of the month nursing a bum shoulder and doing a ton of work, Mrs. Narc and I made the trek up to Bear Lake to check things out this weekend.

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