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Chris Webb Parsons. Representing.

Really nice interview by Simon Carter with Aussie Chris Webb Parsons:

Oh, my thumb. I use it like another finger. When I first started climbing I was reading about how to get stronger, about finger boarding etc.
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I figured out that there was a lot of strength in my thumb and I remember sitting in school, my maths class, and I was just mucking around on the edge of the desk and I was playing with my fingers and I had my thumbs on the edge of the desk and I was like I wonder if you could use that as a crimp?
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So I began twisting my thumb and really stretching them, every day, stretching them. I remember they were really hurting. But I just kept crimping the edge of the desk and began to use it on certain holds.
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Video Friday – 1/17/2014

The highest rated videos of the past week

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Like A Ballerina

Alex Honnold, after soloing the sustained 1,500+ ft. 5.12 El Sendero Luminoso in El Potrero Chico, Mexico:

“It felt pretty straight forward,” he says. “Once I started up, I was like this is awesome. I didn’t blow a single foot—like a ballerina.”

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Climber Accused Of Murder In Carderock Death

Bizarre and sad story at Maryland’s Carderock:

A Virginia rock climber has been charged with manslaughter after allegedly attacking a man with a claw hammer at Carderock Park in Montgomery County.

A reader had emailed me about this a couple weeks ago under the initial assumption that the deceased, Geoffrey ‘Carderock Geoff’ Farrar, had died in a climbing accident.
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 That was obviously sad enough, but to have it take this kind of turn is even more unfortunate.
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La Lune

After leaving empty handed last year, Jonathan Siegrist returns to Las Vegas and makes quick work of his project in Arrow Canyon, La Lune:

 I invested so much in this route and spent so many hours in 2013 dreaming about it. It was very difficult for me to walk away without success last year.
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It feels strange to have it done now, especially considering how damn hard I thought it was after last season.
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Could I have improved this much?
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Maybe I was completely destroyed mentally and physically last season and all I needed was a fresh start? I’m really not sure to be honest, and after being prepared for war against this seemingly undefeatable opponent, to claim victory after such a short battle almost seems unfair; it’s almost as though I wanted the process to last longer.

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Bernd Zangerl Talks About Shantaram

UKC caught up with Bernd Zangerl to discuss his new problem Shantaram, which he opened this past summer in Norway:

It is my hardest problem for sure – I can’t compare it with anything I did in the past. Regardless of the number which will be related to “Shantaram” in the future, the first ascent on June 11, 2013 as well as the journey to accomplish it are among the most intense of my climbing life…
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my highlight!

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Video Friday – 1/10/2014

A few words on The DLFA film I saw recently and the highest rated videos of the past few weeks

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