American Alpine Club One Day Member Drive

Posted July 26, 2012 at 7:08 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The American Alpine Club is celebrating their acquisition of the Hueco Rock Ranch with a one day member drive TODAY. Sign up or renew your membership today and receive a free shirt commemorating the Rock Ranch acquisition in addition to all the other great benefits the AAC has to offer.
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“I Can’t Be A Climber Forever”

Posted July 23, 2012 at 12:47 pm · Comments { 24 } ·

Sasha DiGiulian speaks to her plan of enrolling at Columbia this fall in a lengthy piece on her in The Washington Post:

“Most of my competitors, in the World Cup circuit especially, are just climbing,” DiGiulian adds. “But I decided to go back to school.
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Because I know that, in the long term, I can’t be a climber forever.”

The whole piece is well worth reading as you can get a good feel for the level of success DiGiulian has achieved in a rather short period of time. While DiGiulian has always been a talented climber, remember that even two years ago she had done “only” one 5.14¹. What’s she’s done in the interim both in competitions and on real rock has been well documented, and her success seems well-deserved.

She’s added 20 more since then ↩

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Video Friday – 7/20/2012

Posted July 20, 2012 at 7:59 am · Comments { 1 } ·

The top videos of the past week

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Background On The Hueco Rock Ranch Sale

Posted July 19, 2012 at 3:15 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

Access Fund Access Director Joe Sambataro, writing about the Access Fund’s role in the recent American Alpine Club acquisition of the iconic Hueco Rock Ranch:

Finishing his drink, Rob [Rice] explains how he came to Hueco shortly before the park rules changed, closing access to classic boulders and setting up a new process for permits and guide-only access. “It was important for me to honor Todd’s home and dream of a climbers’ hub,” explains Rob.
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He shares how he became the first commercial guide under the new public use plan, built a campground, and started a business of lodging and guiding, opening the Ranch up to the broader climbing community. “New generations of climbers have flocked to Hueco, and thousands of new stories have been made, year after year, here at the Ranch,” says Rob.
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“I want this legacy to continue in climber-friendly hands.
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”

Amen.

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Ashima Visits Japan

Posted July 19, 2012 at 7:12 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Rock & Ice has a nice photo recap by Eddie Gianelloni of Ashima Shiraishi’s trip to Japan that saw her repeat climbs up to V10.

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Japan

First 5.14b For 11-Year-Old Brooke Raboutou

Posted July 17, 2012 at 7:11 am · Comments { 25 } ·

According to her 8a scorecard 11-year-old Brooke Raboutou has done her first 5.14b in Welcome To Tijuana at Rodellar, Spain. This makes her the likely youngest to ever achieve such a grade and no doubt the shortest as well. The 50-foot power endurance route Welcome to Tijuana is a popular first 5.14b as it was Brooke’s brother Shawn’s and Sasha DiGiulian’s first as well. It only took DiGiulian 14 months to make the jump from her first 5.
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14b to climbing 5.14d, I wonder how long it will take Brooke??