What’s In The Mags: September 2010

Welcome to a new feature I’m calling What’s In The Mags.  This is most definitely a work in progress, but my goal is to highlight each issue of the major U.S. climbing magazines.  While the internet has become a great resource for reading and learning about climbing, I still think that magazines have a lot to offer.  Without further ado, here is what is going on (in no particular order) in the latest issues of Climbing, Rock & Ice, Deadpoint and Urban Climber.

Climbing #288 – September 2010

Climbing #288 - September 2010

What’s on the cover:

Chris Sierzant climbing in Little River Canyon, AL – Photo by Tomas Donoso

Featured Articles:

• Deep South Water Scrambling by Tomas Donoso – A look at some of the different “water scrambling” areas surrounding Chattanooga, TN
• Wind, Sand, and Scars by Andrew Burr – Climbing remote desert towers in UT with Pete Vintoniv, Rob Pizem and Orin Salah.
• Hollywood Hideout by Nicky Dyal – Craggin at Malibu Creek, CA

Other Notables:

• Editorial from new editor-in-chief Dougald McDonald outlining his vision for the future of the magazine which will include an “unwavering focus on the average American climber”.
• Ten Things you didn’t know about knots
• Sporting Life – Matt Samet’s look at his “four most appalling experiences” at climbing gyms
• History of the access situation at Draper’s Bluff, IL
• Hot Flashes – News from Alex Honnold and Mt. Foraker
• Players – profile of guidebook author Harald Roker
• Tech tips on falling and foot care
• Classic Climbs – Skyline (5.8) – City Of Rocks, ID
• Trad climbing and bouldering in Minnesota
• Profile of Smith Rock “steward” Ryan Cafferky
• Perspective – Timmy O’Neill

My Pick:

Of the featured articles I most enjoyed Andrew Burr’s piece about climbing remote towers in Utah while the “water scrambling” piece just made me more jealous of the amount of rock there is near Chattanooga, TN.  With Dougald McDonald on board as the new editor-in-chief it will be very interesting to see where Climbing goes from here.

Rock & Ice # 189 – October 2010

Rock & Ice # 189 - October 2010

What’s on the cover:

Alex Chabot climbing on the amazing columns of Pixelization (5.12a) at Garni Gorge, Armenia – Photo by Sam Bie

Issue Theme:

“The Amazing Issue”

Featured Articles:

• Everyman’s Exposed
• Armenia, Amazing by Jeff Jackson – A look at the “aesthetically hallucinating” walls in Armenia
• The Vulture’s Garden by Strappo – An insanely long article that, frankly, I haven’t found the time to read just yet
• Big Sky by Emily Stifler – “The seasons and faces of Montana climbing”

Other Notables:

• Cliff Notes looking back on the 1963 ascent of The Diagonal (V 5.9 A5) in Colorado’s Black Canyon by Jimmy Dunn and Earl Wiggins
• Spotlight on Chris Schulte
• Tuesday Night Bouldering – Andrew Bisharat
• What I’ve Learned – Beth Rodden talks about things she’s learned over her years as a professional climber
• Ask Dr. J – Dr. J discusses hypermobility and tendinosis
• Ask the Coach – Neil Gresham talks about “eccentric strength training”
• Parting shot from Simon Carter

My Pick:

It’s hard not to be inspired by the “Armenia Amazing” & “Big Sky” articles, and the “What I’ve Learned” piece was a nice insight into the mind of Beth Rodden.

Deadpoint Magazine 12 – Sept.-Oct 2010

What’s on the cover:

Bouldering at Bishop’s Sad Boulders – Photo by Damon Corso

Featured Articles:

• Bouldering at the Sads photo essay by Damon Corso  with an accompanying video here
• Confessions of a Dirtbag by Craig Stevens
• Red Hot Passion by Bill Strachan

Other Notables:

• Responses to the Women’s issue
• Outdoor Retailer humor
• Profile of Young Chu, shoe designer and the creator of the Mad Rock brand
• Interview with Tommy Caldwell’s severed finger
• Interviews with hold shaper Tony Reynaldo and the Bikini Boulderers Facebook group
• 10 Does and Don’ts For Sending Your Project by Eric Hörst

My Pick:

After a an excellent Women’s Issue this issue of DPM left me a bit flat.  The piece on bouldering at the Sads was good albeit a bit brief.  Otherwise the Us Magazine inspired Outdoor Retailer piece is always good for a laugh.

Urban Climber #41 – August 2010

Urban Climber #41 - August 2010

What’s on the cover:

Lauren Lee working Breaking The Law (5.14b) in St. George, UT – Photo by Keith Ladzinski

Featured Articles:

• The X Factor by Melissa Strong – Female FFAs with thoughts from Ana Burgos, Jill Church, Thomasina Pidgeon, Natasha Barnes, Jody Hansen, Lisa Rands & Angie Payne.
• A trip to Smith rocks with Jonathan Siegrist – photo essay
• Urban Climber’s Abridged Climbing Almanac including 25 things every climber should know

Other Notables:

• Comparison of Battle in the Bubble & Vail World Cup by Jackie Hueftle
• Profiles of Jill Church, Nicky Dyal, Jenn Flemming, Jimmy Webb, Stefan Glowacz and the Gravity Vault climbing gym
• Photo spread on Utah’s Black and Tan Wall by Keith Ladzinski
• Tips and techniques for projecting
• The Myths and Truths about Chalk

My Pick:

The discussion about first female ascents was really well done and is well worth the read if you’re interested in that discussion (I am).  The Climbing Alamanac was a bit hit or miss but it did have some good stuff in it.