News & Notes – 2/23/2010

News…

• Anthony Chertudi has done the FA of Spirit Walker, a potential V14 that links 2 of his previous FAs at the 27th St. Boulders in Ogden, UT.  Click here to see video of Chertudi doing the 2nd ascent of The Masterpiece (V13) in Joe’s Valley.
• Sean McColl and Ethan Pringle both nabbed repeats of the Bishop highball Evilution Direct (V11).  McColl sent the line ground up while Pringle worked it on a rope first.  It’s worth noting that Pringle is still recovering from a debilitating shoulder injury suffered at last year’s ABS Nationals.  Seems like things are going pretty well thus far.
• Jon Glassberg recently completed his long battle with Dark Waters (V12/13ish) in Clear Creek Canyon, CO.  First done way back in 2006 by Daniel Woods, the grade of Dark Waters has always been good fodder for a debate about grades.  Check out Glassberg’s blog post for another good addition to the discussion.

Dark Waters (V13) from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

…And Notes…

• Formerly the Mammut Bouldering Championships, the newly minted Unified Bouldering Championships Pro Tour kicks off in Maryland on April 23 & 24 at the Earth Treks Roc Comp presented by Mountain Hardwear.  Already scheduled to appear at the comp to compete for an $11,000 cash purse are the likes of Lisa Rands, Paul Robinson and some guy named Chris Sharma.  Read the tour launch press release here.
• Issue 9 of Deadpoint Magazine is now available
• There’s been a bit of a shake up at the magazines published by Skram Media.  With the departure of Matt Samet from Climbing Magazine, Urban Climber’s Editor in Chief Justin Roth has been promoted to Editorial Director of all 3 Skram Media brands.
• Part 1 of Peter Beal’s interview series with former Climbing Magazine Editor in Chief Matt Samet
• Urban Climber Magazine interviews 2009 Triple Crown winner Kasia Pietras
• To put a cap on last week’s post about the 2010 ABS Nationals is this excellent write up from Rock & Ice and this gallery of images from Steve Woods
• Jamie Emerson poses several interesting questions with regards to women and the world of high-end climbing
• Episode 6 of The Season is now up on the Arc’Teryx website.  This episode offers the first look at climber Matt Maddaloni and his “anti-cam” (shown above).
• Pump Factory Road has the transcript from a recent edition of Climb Talk Radio with guidebook authors and first ascenionists Jason Haas and Tom Hanson.  Several interesting quotes including this one from Haas:

But, I’ve been climbing a lot in the South Platte lately, and replacing some bolts down there and working on a guidebook for there.  And talking to some of the old first ascensionists, they kind of regret their run-out routes, because people aren’t repeating them.  Looking back on that, 20/30 years later, [they] really wish that they had done them in a different style.  So, I think there’s something to be said for that, of looking back on your routes.

and this one from Hanson about everyone’s Sock Hands’ favorite chosspile, Castlewood Canyon:

Well, I think a lot of the rock has really cleaned up, so there’s not so much loose climbing anymore.  I really think of Castlewood as a winter climbing area.  It has one of the warmest climates on this side of Shelf Road, which is considered Colorado’s “banana belt.”  Castlewood can often be the same way.  But, in the summertime you really have to be aware of rattlesnakes.  One day in particular, we encountered 28 rattlesnakes in one day.  The place can really be infested in the warm summer months

• Rock breaks, even on famous V13 super highballs.  Be careful out there!
• Via TheLowDown is this Kairn.com interview with the Huber Brothers:

Oh and I forgot to mention that this site is 3 years old as of last Saturday.  Thanks to everyone for reading!