In Colorado for the recent Bouldering World Cup event, Finland’s Nalle Hukkataival (pictured climbing not at Mt. Evans) made short work of several Mt.
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Evans testpieces. Word on the street is that he flashed No More Greener Grasses (V12) and did Clear Blue Skies (V12) and Mental Masturbation (V12) 2nd go. I’m not sure, but that might be the first flash of NMGG. He also climbed Silverback (V10), Supergui (V12) AND Ode to the Modern Man (V14). Pretty good for a few days of climbing.
Also, Jon Cardwell made the 7th ascent of Ode to the Modern Man (V14) and Keita Mogaki flashed Mental Masturbation (V12).
With these two recent ascents, and another one possibly by Matt Wilder, Ode is now one of the most repeated V14s in the U.S.
What’s up w/ Fred? Any news out there about his exploits out west?
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Narc,
Just curious do you think that such climbs that Nalle has climbed means they are soft? Or perhaps with the Bouldering World Cup in Vail Colorado’s already large talent pool of climbers has enlarged for a moment in time. With this said we have brought some of the most talented climbers from Europe to the US, didn’t the Italian fellow who took second crush the Mandala SDS… some the bishop bouldering site, mentioned something along the lines it was his style. If I was going to Europe I’d want to crush and search for climbs that were my style and at my limit.
Another point of interest is the media… how many videos are their or Ode… Daniel some time ago, Ty, Kevin… etc… (I know I have seen videos for most of the other Evan’s climbs… Seth Allred, and others). How many videos of Confessions or the Dagger are there? I have not seen them, I do not doubt their existence, i have not seen them. Long story short… beta… obviously makes any climb easier…
I hope this made sense, I am exhausted.
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Eric – Not sure about what Fred has been up to, I’ll see what I can find out
Andrew – If you look at Nalle’s scorecard you will find that his success at Mt. Evans isn’t really too surprising. He is quite strong.
I’m not sure if the reason we don’t see videos of Euro testpieces is because they don’t exist or we simply don’t know about them due to language barriers of most Euro climbing sites.
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We have the video of Nalle crushing at Evans on MomentumVM.com
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I gave video to momentumvm of Daniel doing both Confessions and The Dagger a month ago
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MC – Please release the footage!
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i think the reason Ode is getting so many repeats if because how straightforward it is.. pull on, grab two crimps and jump to a sloper. it seems like if your strong enough to do it, it goes really fast. although its interesting that the only person who suggested a downgrade to 8B was Tony Lamiche (Ive heard, not sure if this is exactly true or not).
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Jamie, thats quite awesome, if you email me the footage… ill buy you a beer. or be your sherpa for a day.
Narc- Nalle is not just strong, he appears to be ridiculous…
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I especially like how he blows out his thumb and keeps on crushing small crimps.
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Lamiche actually said ode was V12, I think, although I havent climbed it, that it would be a proper hard V13, although everyone wants to climb V14 so no one will downgrade it
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Will you be spending more time at Mt. Evans this summer Jamie?
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yeah im psyched to spend time there but i have been extremely busy with work, world cup, then i had to work both days last weekend and now i am off to Alaska with my family forthe next two weekends. its been a nice break. Evans has always been second for me because of the hike, and the rock (which is not as good as the park). i have a full time job as well which has put a damper on my time outside
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You should get MC to pay you to be a full time correspondent reporting from the forests of Switzerland…
Have fun in Alaska…
Hopefully you will have some free time come august 19-23
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