Word from DPM is that Adam Ondra onsighted both Pure Imagination and Golden Ticket today in the Red River Gorge. Both routes had been considered 5.14d but he apparently suggested downgrades for both.
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Wow. Um…thanks for coming?
You can see footage of Sasha DiGiulian repeating Pure Imagination here while some footage of Ethan Pringle on Golden Ticket can be seen here.
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HOLY SHIT
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Good thing Sasha did Era Vella, else she’d kinda be screwed until she sent 14.d again
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One ascent does not a consensus grade make.
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Pure Imagination was also downgraded to 8c+ by Jorg Verhoeven on his 8a scorecard. Along with Southern Smoke and 50 words, both to 8c.
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Pure Imagination has broken (twice I think?) since the FA. So it’s quite possible that it was 9a to begin with. Daniel Woods just registered SS and he thinks it to be low end 8c+… the point is, by all appearances it’s quite a blurry line.
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Seriously . . . Adam is clearly a very talented and experienced climber, and he seems to be very good at perceiving the difficulty of routes. He is more willing than most to give his honest opinion on everything he tries. But he is just one person, and people need to stop taking his opinion as the be-all end-all gospel of climbing grades. That’s not how consensus works. His opinion is one piece of the puzzle, not the whole picture. Grades have never been an easy thing to define, and they never will be.
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i like that they both happened in the same day. you know, nbd.
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On an unrelated note, ^^this^^ comment is the 15,000th ever made on the site. Congrats…you win…nothing.
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This guy is unreal. He’s accomplished so much that I always forget he’s still a teenager. Geeez. So inspiring.
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It’s kind of like by the time he turns 20 he might as well find a new hobby since he’s basically done it all at this point
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I’d personally like to see him take up tennis, imagine that Ondra shriek every time he hit a return! Forget about the noise he’d make if he won a match!
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I know Ondra is a beast bit even he can’t onsight two 14ds in the same day. The routes must have been soft for the grade. Either that or he is superman….. WAIT A MINUTE!!!
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Im not saying that they are or aren’t 5.14d but in response to your comment, YES Adam Ondra can most defanetly onsight two 14d’s in one day. I dont think you understand the HUGE difference between grades at that level. even between 14d and 15a. Much less his proposed 15c. 14d is NOT hard to him.
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I DO understand the huge difference between grades at that level, and yet I still stand by my comment. Agree to disagree.
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I don’t want to go hunting for the post, but didn’t already have a day where he red-pointed (maybe first ascent?) or a 15a/b and quickly followed it up with a 14d redpoint in Spain?
He clearly has the stamina to climb multiple 14d’s in a day, and as we see he is still improving it does not seem like a stretch.
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http://climbingnarc.com/2011/03/5-15b-fa-and-5-14c-onsight-in-a-day-by-adam-ondra/
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Why not? What physical, emotional, cognitive or tactical limit do you think prevents someone from on-sighting two routes of a specific grade in a day? In 20 years when on-sighting 5.14d is commonplace are you still going to say the same thing?
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Well, if it were me I would have been at the Beer Trailer stocking up for a celebration about 5 seconds after onsighting the first 5.14d. But then again, that’s why I will be struggling to even send a 5.12 this weekend, let alone onsight one.
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Yes he did, but those were both redpoints. I am not arguing against his strength and or stamina, or his mental fortitude for that matter. I am a huge admirer of his abilities and think he is the face of next generation climbing. I am merely stating my opinion that it seems even he isn’t likely to ONSIGHT without any prior knowledge of the route two .14ds in the same day. Obviously he doesn’t think so either hence the downgrades. Lets not turn this in to a thread war I agreed to disagree.
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It’s not like he said to himself after climbing these, “I don’t think I’m capable of onsighting two 14ds in one day, I guess I’ll downgrade them both!” No… he downgraded them because that’s what he thought each route weighed in at.
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Edit the 14c was onsight.
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Ondra, the Great Grade Equalizer.
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Or a cyborg created by Debate/Jens to carry out his nefarious schemes
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^Now that’s funny,
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This is amazing! He is just one of those climbers who is very passionate, serious and intense in what he loves to do. I am striving to be like that with my climbing too. With popularity, there will always be someone who does not like or agree with what’s happening but for me i would like to see the good side of things. And this is one awesome update that i just read! Keep on climbing HARD Adam! Your are an inspiration to me even though you are a lot younger than me. HA!
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I think it’s great we have a guy willing to fight grade creep. Nice work.
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It’s easy to fight grade creep when you are the one who has proposed the hardest grade ever.
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Not even the same climber, but related in concept:
http://climbingnarc.com/2011/05/two-5-15s-in-a-day-at-oliana-for-chris-sharma/
We know its possible, probably only for these 2 super elites at this point in time. I know its not linear, but if you think of a time when 5.11c was your redpoint grade, doing a few 5.10c/d climbs that fit your style in a day isn’t wholly improbable.
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So, he AO’d the three hardest routes at the Red and downgraded all of them?! I’m mind blown!
We all know that the routes are a bit soft there. Adam has also suggested a higher grade for a route before (Open Air, for example). So, I bet it’s quite an honest suggestion that others weren’t willing to make for these routes.
That’s AO, not A0, by the way.
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I agree with you PBC. I also see where everyone else is coming from. I am done with this thread, why ruin an otherwise STELLAR accomplishment. Congrats to AO, no come to Rumney and downgrade all of our routes.
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Daniel Woods also flashed Pure Imagination per his 8Spray scorecard, and agreed with Ondra’s grade of soft 8c+/14c. Big respect to Daniel, that’s one of the only flashes or onsights of an 8c+ route not made by Ondra himself.
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er…no, sir. See what patxi did in 2007:
http://legacy.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/patxionsights14c/
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er…yes, sir. See that he said “one of the only,” not the only.
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Two weeks ago this would be major ClimbingNarc news.. now just left as a footnote… ah the finicky world of cutting edge climbing.
respect to daniel, quite an achievement
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I’ll get there. Catching up from a weekend spent climbing in the Red…
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sry, sir. I appologise.
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