PlanetMountain caught up with Adam Ondra yesterday after his repeat of Gioia to ask him the important questions like how’d it feel, what’s next and what he thinks about the grade:
Well every single move is at the very limit and so I do think it’s V16. I’d compare it in difficulty to Terranova. If you were to give this V15, then the bouldering grades wouldn’t make much sense anymore. You’d have to downgrade all the V14 and most of the V15’s as well.
Posted In: Asides, Bouldering, Interviews, News
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Holy crap, the video of the send is awesome. Adam Ondra actually looked like he was having difficulty on a boulder problem. What an aesthetic boulder as well!
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I like what you guys tend to be up too. Such clever work and coverage!
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It is wild that Ondra said he could only give the boulder ONE real try per day. The fact that this problem is so difficult that the strongest climber on the planet needs 24 hours of rest after EACH BURN is beyond comprehension.
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Yeah for me this was the most interesting aspect. It also got me wondering whether this was something that only really happens at elite levels of difficulty, or whether I’m not just trying hard enough, because even my hardest sends all felt like something I would have a good chance of doing again rather quickly once I had the beta. Anyone out there have an experience of being totally wiped after only one go on a boulder problem?
Also, this is the guy who still felt fresh enough after sending Chaxi Raxi (9b) to go and onsight a consensus hard for the grade 8c+. Gioia must be pretty hard then.
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Agreed. I’d like to know why exactly he couldn’t give more than one serious attempt per day. Skin/Sharp holds? Fear of injuring a finger on heinous crimpers? Shit, it takes me 2-3 attempts to dial in the moves again, even if I’ve worked a problem before. Seems wild; I wonder how he warmed up.
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I have been so wiped after one go that I couldn’t try that problem again…. then I just move on to easier stuff (or something with completely different moves).
Also, I think there is a typo when quoting adam. Should say “If you were to give this V15…”
Anyone know how long Christian worked this problem before his send? Adam said it took him 11 days.
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That was amazing. Iv’e got a long ways to go before I could even think of doing something like that.
Ryan
getontherocks.blogspot.com
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Yeah, me too *shakes head*
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