Tune in live tonight for the final round of the 2014 Psicobloc Masters Series from Park City, UT. We’ll get underway at 6:50 MDT with a brief pre-show, and then the final round will get started right after 7 PM. The women will be up first competing head-to-head with the men to follow in the same format afterwards. Below are the brackets and the live feed where you can catch all the action.
[youtube=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4fDC0Xc-Rw&w=600]
Live From 2014 Psicobloc Masters Psicocomp Finals
Posted In: Competitions, Deep Water Soloing
Tags: Psicobloc Masters Series
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22 Responses to Live From 2014 Psicobloc Masters Psicocomp Finals
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Jared: Use to visit this site daily. Miss you Narc! Hope ...
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chris marcolini: Did you ever find the falling block?...
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Nate: The narc lives on, at least as an archive. Miss th...
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Animull89: So gnarly that he did that twice...I remember the ...
Well thanks a lot guys. I had a beer every time Boulder CO was mentioned, a shot for Movement climbing and fitness, and a puff of weed every time Chris said “Thats absolutely right.” 12 hours later im still too drunk to see out of my left eye.
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that’s absolutely right
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shame that the routes were easy enough for almost all the competitors and that it turned into a speed climbing event
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I wouldn’t say so. Sharma fell off, so it couldn’t have been THAT easy to do the route 3-4 times with only a few minutes rest.
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Agreed. This year was interesting but not as exciting as last year. Difficulty climbing is way cooler than speed climbing
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It is designed to be a speed comp in part, which is why the problems weren’t as hard as they could have been, it makes for a better show. if everyone fell off on the second move it would have been boring.
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T and A is funny!
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Hahaha I love T and A…
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I agree. Route was a little too easy for gals and way too easy for the guys. Would like to have seen a little bit more of a shake out in terms of hard moves. Seems like Clare would have still one, she and Alex seemed very strong. The guys it was hard to tell as it was just a pure race. Props to Sean for taking advantage of a route that if this style and beating the three best challengers back to back to back
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I got bored watching a predictable speed event. the idea has a huge potential, but the format needs some work.
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Didn’t the men’s route last year have only a few sends? Maybe just a reaction to that.
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I personally really enjoyed watching this particular event. I really liked how the routes showed off the athleticism of the climbers, and I didn’t think it was predictable at all. Lots of close matchups where the two climbers just had to straight throw down. What other comp has that? Awesome to see all the climbers enjoying themselves too :). It looked like a spectacular event from my perspective, and just somehow seemed to do a good job of embracing what climbing is all about.
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there was a world cup climber who regularly competes speed climbing events. and he won. that’s predictable…
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That’s true. But in a regular speed event you can do way riskier moves than in the psicocomp. So this is not a 1:1 transfer of one particular ability. It’s more that Sean has the optimal training by beeing an expert in all three climbing varieties.
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No less predictable than a typical world cup lead comp IMO.
From an organizers standpoint, what specifically would you do differently and why? From my perspective this was a particularly well done event.
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I think only Chris Sharma topped out last year. And only once. It was inspiring to see Sean send possibly a 14a that many times that fast. Wonder how hard the route was. The ladies didn’t seem as much like a speed comp. Cool that a wild card women won.
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I did the first half of the women’s route and it was only like 5.11-. I heard overall it was somewhere in the 5.13- range with the men’s falling on the hard end of 5.13. I think in general the routes were clearly easier than last year given the number of tops (Claire did the women’s route 6 times without falling).
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The women’s comp was pretty perfect, hopefully for the men next year they’ll find that sweet middle ground between last years (difficulty) and this years (speed). I wouldn’t be too siked to see a pure speed comp every year (although I did thoroughly enjoy this years and do enjoy elements of speed). Speed climbing kind of weeds out a lot of really intriguing climbers to me (“old man” Sharma for one). With speed comps I always start relating it to my own climbing, like okay thats like me and my buddies going out and climbing a 11+ as fast as we can 4 times in a row and then yeah I don’t know my brain just doesn’t let me go there with thinking thats that amazing or that would determine who the stronger climber is. Even though climbing a 13+ that fast and that many times is truly freaking out of this world amazing it’s kind of not to them which is why they can do it 4 times in a row at blistering speeds (or at least McColl can!)
Of course, it might not be all about us, it feels like they want to appeal to non-climbers at least a little bit and speed climbing does do that. Either way, best televised comp I know of easy! Great job Narc and Chris for the more analytical approach to the broadcasting over last years straight up MCing!
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Commentating was by far better than the drunk guy from last year, nice job!
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Want to know something funny? It was the same guy!
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Not exactly
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Watching online I listened to two sober individuals that helped make watching the comp more enjoyable. I’m glad I wasn’t at the comp and had to listen to “The Drunk Guy” announcing, that dude would ruin the event for me.
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