Everyone who is anyone has been in South Africa the past couple months, and 13-year-old Mirko Caballero is among those who have been pushing their limits in Rocklands.
Among the highlights from his trip, according to his 8a scorecard, are flashes of 3 V11s and repeats of The Vice (V13) and Golden Shadow (V14). These are Caballero’s 3rd V13 and 2nd V14 respectively.
Rock & Ice caught up with Caballero to ask him about his repeat of Golden Shadow:
The moves on this boulder are quite powerful and require good body tension. The first three moves revolve around a tension heel-hook with three right-facing slopey crimps. Then immediately after that you get a left toe cam and do three powerful slaps on slopey crimps and slopers. Finally, for the last hard move you throw with a bad heel hook for your right foot and an OK sloper with your right hand, to a left hand pinch. You finish off the boulder with an easier top out.
Caballero sending The Vice
Caballero on Golden Shadow