→ Biographie In A Day By Alex Megos∞

Posted July 14, 2014 at 12:36 pm · Comments { 12 } ·

In case we needed more evidence that Alex Megos is one of the top climbers in history, over the weekend he repeated Chris Sharma’s Biographie (5.15a) in just one day.

One.

Day.

Biographie.

Incredible.

Post by Alexander Megos.

Posted In: Asides, News, Sport Climbing
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12 Responses to Biographie In A Day By Alex Megos

  1. RyanJ July 14, 2014 at 3:47 pm #

    What the? I don’t even. Damn.

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  2. SCherry July 14, 2014 at 5:31 pm #

    Did Ondra finish this off in a day as well? I know he nearly missed the onsight but when did he finally finish the route?

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    • Narc July 14, 2014 at 5:38 pm #

      Pretty sure he still has not climbed this route

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  3. Vlad July 14, 2014 at 6:23 pm #

    “Checked out the route and send it in 3rd Go afterwards” So 4th try for us americans? Pretty damn impressive!

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    • Ryan July 15, 2014 at 8:00 am #

      I read it as “he worked the route, bolt to bolt, sequence by sequence, until he knew the route. He then made three attempts from the bottom of the route, and sent on his final (third) go.” Who knows how many minutes or hours he spent “checking it out.”

      I like to ignore the “third go” part, in favor of focusing on the “sent Biographie in a day” part.

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      • Narc July 15, 2014 at 8:03 am #

        I think you’re probably right on that

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      • Michael Schaefer July 15, 2014 at 9:17 am #

        You are correct it was 4th try for us americans. It took him quite a few tries to figure out the V11 boulder problem off the ground. He didn’t spend an excessive amount of time working out the moves for the rest of the route on his first go. Pretty normal beta burn. Not a multi-hour siege by any means.

        And Ondra tried the route again yesterday with a bunch of beta from Alex. I don’t know the route super well, but he fell off about 1/3 of the way up. I got bored and didn’t stick around for the next go.

        Here is a pic of Alex on it. http://instagram.com/p/qaMPzaLY_Q/?modal=true

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        • Narc July 15, 2014 at 9:23 am #

          Thanks for the info!

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          • ky6er July 15, 2014 at 12:27 pm #

            Narc, I guess you should probably go ahead and prep the headline for Ondra’s send!

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        • Paul Campbell July 15, 2014 at 6:19 pm #

          Ondra fell?! Blasphemy!

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  4. Vlad July 15, 2014 at 11:38 am #

    Mikey, your pictures are amazing!

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  5. wolfi July 17, 2014 at 1:39 pm #

    there is a nice interview with Alex:
    http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41963
    regarding the checking out he said that he need one houf from bottom to top (not a long time for this monster climb):
    quote:
    It was the day after a rest-day and we reached the crag at about 13:30. I warmed up by checking out the moves on Biographie, this took circa 1 hour. Then I started to make the attempts, and had circa 30 – 40 minutes rest between each go.

    (In fact he has done Biographie in a half day)

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