Archive | January, 2014

→ Climber Accused Of Murder In Carderock Death∞

Posted January 15, 2014 at 7:25 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Bizarre and sad story at Maryland’s Carderock:

A Virginia rock climber has been charged with manslaughter after allegedly attacking a man with a claw hammer at Carderock Park in Montgomery County.

A reader had emailed me about this a couple weeks ago under the initial assumption that the deceased, Geoffrey ‘Carderock Geoff’ Farrar, had died in a climbing accident.
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That was obviously sad enough, but to have it take this kind of turn is even more unfortunate.
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Carderock

→ La Lune∞

Posted January 14, 2014 at 8:35 am · Comments { 0 } ·

After leaving empty handed last year, Jonathan Siegrist returns to Las Vegas and makes quick work of his project in Arrow Canyon, La Lune:

I invested so much in this route and spent so many hours in 2013 dreaming about it. It was very difficult for me to walk away without success last year.
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It feels strange to have it done now, especially considering how damn hard I thought it was after last season.
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Could I have improved this much?
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Maybe I was completely destroyed mentally and physically last season and all I needed was a fresh start? I’m really not sure to be honest, and after being prepared for war against this seemingly undefeatable opponent, to claim victory after such a short battle almost seems unfair; it’s almost as though I wanted the process to last longer.

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Jonathan Siegrist

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Arrow Canyon

→ Bernd Zangerl Talks About Shantaram∞

Posted January 13, 2014 at 8:20 am · Comments { 0 } ·

UKC caught up with Bernd Zangerl to discuss his new problem Shantaram, which he opened this past summer in Norway:

It is my hardest problem for sure – I can’t compare it with anything I did in the past. Regardless of the number which will be related to “Shantaram” in the future, the first ascent on June 11, 2013 as well as the journey to accomplish it are among the most intense of my climbing life…
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my highlight!

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Bernd Zangerl

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2014

Posted January 10, 2014 at 8:06 am · Comments { 0 } ·

A few words on The DLFA film I saw recently and the highest rated videos of the past few weeks

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→ The Day I Sent The Nest∞

Posted January 8, 2014 at 7:57 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Daniel Woods:

On the day I sent The Nest, we first stopped at another project in this wash, which we had been walking by and looking at multiple times on our way to The Nest. In a team FA effort, Jimmy, Nalle and I climbed this beautiful new boulder. Doing this other problem, as opposed to just gunning for the main prize, helped boost our confidence and take away some of the nervous pressure I think we were all feeling toward The Nest.
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Daniel Woods

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Red Rock

→ Your Project Can Wait∞

Posted January 7, 2014 at 8:23 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Interesting picture over at the RV Project which seems to show damage to one of the more photogenic boulders at Tennessee’s Little Rock City due to the possible use of a blowtorch. As is pointed out in their post, we climbers do a lot of things that don’t exactly follow the Leave No Trace ethic, but using a blowtorch is something I can’t ever think of a good reason for doing.
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Sure, it may help you in the short term, but anyone who tells you they know the long term impact of using one is either lying to you, lying to themselves or both.
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The use of a blowtorch seems to be driven by the same selfish pursuit that drives people to climb where they’re not supposed to, park where they’re not supposed to, shit where they’re not supposed to and so on.
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Given how difficult it has been to police those other behaviors I’m not terribly optimistic when it comes to our ability to curtail the use of blowtorches, but that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t try.

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