Archive | January, 2014

→ 10 Questions With Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson∞

Posted January 23, 2014 at 10:36 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Nice interview with Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson by The Adventure Journal:

I think if climbers took a moment to learn more about what we do, how much we accomplish, and how small of an organization we actually are, a lot more people would join and see their $35 membership as a bargain. Fact is, the majority of our funding comes from individual climbers. If climbers didn’t support us, we wouldn’t be here, period. One of my favorite things is when a climber who has known about us for a long time, and thinks we’re big and powerful, comes to visit our office. There is often a look of surprise and slight disappointment on their face – they can’t believe how small we actually are but they don’t want to offend me by saying so.
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So funny. We definitely punch way above our weight, which I’m really proud of.
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We are doing a lot with a little, so climbers should be confident that their money is being used wisely.
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Brady Robinson

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→ El Sendero Luminoso Q & A With Alex Honnold∞

Posted January 23, 2014 at 8:40 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Alpinist caught up with Alex Honnold for a little Q & A about his recent free solo of El Sendero Luminoso in El Potrero Chico, Mexico:

I used to be scared of spiders but I kind of got over it. I mean, with a route like El Sendero, I definitely felt some anxiety or nervousness beforehand, but I think a lot of that comes with experiencing something new. I didn’t know how it would go because I’d never done anything like it before. Stepping into the unknown is always a little unnerving. But I wouldn’t necessarily call that scary, I’d call it more stimulating than anything.

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Alex Honnold

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El Potrero Chico

→ Listening For The Echo∞

Posted January 22, 2014 at 9:10 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Really nice profile by Chris Schulte for Rock & Ice of the legendary Klem Loskot:

These shouts have been in our heads since the year 2000, when Loskot’s marshaling call hit the States with BigUp Production’s Dosage 1. You still can’t go to any bouldering area without hearing a Klem impersonation. The yell is a power-boosting Kiaa! that frees up the chi and fires us like burning arrows. Or maybe when it booms across the gym as you hesitate on the big swingin’ huck, you laugh yourself into a heap, crumpled at the base of the wall. The yell centers and disperses, tricking you into focusing and also reminding you to lighten up.

Much to Mrs. Narc’s chagrin, I’m definitely that guy¹.

The one who yells encouragement at people like I’m Klem Loskot, not the one who climbs hard boulders ↩

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Klem Loskot

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2014 Comp Season In Full Swing

Posted January 22, 2014 at 8:08 am · Comments { 0 } ·

A look at a handful of upcoming climbing comps including the Hueco Rock Rodeo, ABS and SCS Nationals and more

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→ Chris Webb Parsons. Representing.∞

Posted January 21, 2014 at 7:53 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Really nice interview by Simon Carter with Aussie Chris Webb Parsons:

Oh, my thumb. I use it like another finger. When I first started climbing I was reading about how to get stronger, about finger boarding etc.
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I figured out that there was a lot of strength in my thumb and I remember sitting in school, my maths class, and I was just mucking around on the edge of the desk and I was playing with my fingers and I had my thumbs on the edge of the desk and I was like I wonder if you could use that as a crimp?
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So I began twisting my thumb and really stretching them, every day, stretching them. I remember they were really hurting. But I just kept crimping the edge of the desk and began to use it on certain holds.
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