Hours later I was startled awake by Ondra standing like a wet cat in a pool of water in the living room. His curly hair was stuck flat to his face, he was covered in rock dust from head to toe, and his eyes were fiery orbs of excitement. It was 3 a.m. and he just finished bolting two new lines with a couple of hours to spare.

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Adam Ondra

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Flatanger

→ Third 5.15c FA By Adam Ondra∞

Posted December 5, 2013 at 7:46 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Adam Ondra has done his 3rd 5.15c FA¹ with the FA of Vasil Vasil at Sloup in his native Czech Republic. Ondra comments on the route in this interview with UKC:

It might be weird that I am so happy after having done such a “piece of shit” (referring to the fact that the route is short, painful and in a dirty place), but it was really important for me. The existence of those holds, the seeming impossibility irritated me for a long time… I bolted it 5 years ago and I was urged to send it… One day… And so I did. Better now than never.

A couple of things strike me about this. First, 5.15c is starting to sound like not that big of a deal, but it’s worth remembering that this grade has been climbed only a few times in history by a grand total of two people². Second, it’s refreshing to see that not only is Ondra Brave & Humble™ when it comes to grading but also when it comes to the quality of the routes he does. You’ll remember he made similar comments about a possible V16, Terranova, that he did in the Czech Republic back in 2011:

In registering the ascent on his 8a.nu scorecard Ondra calls the problem “not the most inspiring line” and indicates that the it is a traverse along the bottom of a sport climbing crag. About the 12 move line he also says, “definitely not the way bouldering should look like”.

Both Terranova and Vasil Vasil strike me as the type of climbs that are very unlikely to be repeated in the near term but are good candidates for the next Adam Ondra to repeat in 10-20 years once they’re done onsighting and repeating all the other 5.15s in the world.

After Change and La Dura Dura ↩
So far… ↩

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Adam Ondra

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Sloup

→ Is Your Gym Guilty Of Music Piracy?∞

Posted December 4, 2013 at 7:28 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Interesting:

At this very moment, climbing gyms across America are pumping pop, rock, reggae and other background music into their facilities to entertain customers while they climb or work out. Whether the music came from CDs or MP3s, satellite radio or streaming music services like Pandora and Spotify — or whatever other music service their hip, young staff have discovered — chances are the music being played is in violation of federal law.
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→ Leslie Timms Repeats Sacred Geometry (5.13c)∞

Posted December 3, 2013 at 9:18 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Somewhat of a quiet season down in the Red River Gorge this fall, especially compared to last year, but one notable thing that caught my eye was this excellent post by Leslie Timms about her efforts to repeat Sacred Geometry, a 5.13c trad route that was established in recent years by local Andrew Gearing:

It was love at first try. The movement is amazing, super technical yet powerful, and with that beautiful combination of bouldering and crack skills. It is located up on a ledge at Long Wall and you have to climb a nice 5.8 corner to get to it. This position was a wonderful change from the busy sport crags of the Red. It made me so much more aware of how important the scenery and setting are as the climb to me. It has the smallest, trickiest gear that I have ever climbed that hard above, but it is safely protected despite 000 BD and blue aliens being an average size. This mental aspect inspired me even more.

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Leslie Timms

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Red River Gorge

→ How Climbing Fits∞

Posted December 3, 2013 at 8:12 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Ty Landman, in an interview with UKC about a recent FA he did in the UK:

I think an important part of climbing is figuring out what the sport means to you, and where and how it fits into your life. This in turn dictates where your expectations should lie. Climbing was definitely at one time the most important thing to me, but as it shifted to just a hobby, my approach changed. I don’t think this change has had an impact on what I am capable of doing. If anything, it may have made me better.
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Ty Landman

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