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Video Friday – 10/18/2013
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→ Seek And You Shall Find∞
Katie Lambert, writing on her blog about a summer spent climbing some of the hardest routes in one of my favorite places on Earth, Tuolumne:
The exposure was surreal and it was starting to give me the creeps. I thought to myself that all I had to do was mantle up, make a couple of moves and get to the next bolt. Except the holds were dirty and covered in lichen and every time I pulled up with a heel hook into the mantle my hands would slip a little and every time I would climb back down and way back left to the last bolt 15 feet behind me. I did this about 5 times, each time looking back at my 9.
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1 rope draped across sharp knobs, wondering if the sideways fall into the unknown below the roof would cut my rope. Eventually I returned to the belay, leaving behind two lowerout biners and we rapped to the ground. John Bachar Lives played over and over in my head as we walked down the trail and I was more intrigued than ever.
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This piece really took me back to my trip to Tuolumne and made me realize that no matter your skill level anyone can have that quintessential Tuolumne experience whether it’s on a 5.5 or on a 5.13. It seemed fitting to finally post this on the day the national parks re-open.
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A Project No More
Carlo Traversi does the FA of a long-standing project in Washington
→ Climbing Beyond Boehner’s Reach∞
Freddie Wilkinson takes to the Op-Ed section of The New York Times to talk about how the government shutdown has affected the climbing scene in Yosemite:
The most anticipated event of this climbing season was to be an effort by Tommy Caldwell of Colorado to lead a team of climbers to become the first to free climb the Dawn Wall — that is, climbing by hand and foot without using gear to make upward progress — a feat Mr. Caldwell has been pursuing for the last seven years.
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Chris Sharma, a reigning icon of the action-sports world, was to join the climber Kevin Jorgeson in the effort, which they ended up postponing.
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“It’s like Michael Phelps showing up at the Olympics, only to find the pool has been drained,” said Andrew Bisharat, an editor for Rock and Ice Magazine.
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→ V12 FA By Dorothea Karalus In The Grampians∞
Dorothea Karalus, writing on her blog about her FA of the stellar looking problem In The Clouds (V12) in the Grampians:
On cloudy days attempts were usually thwarted by rain showers, so we resorted to night sessions. I made slow but steady progress and one dry evening I managed to stick the crux third move from the bottom only to fall going to the gaston! Nervously I rested for a bit, managed to stay calm and did the probably first ascent the same night!
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As noted by B3Bouldering, this is likely one of the hardest FA’s ever done by a woman.
2013 Portland Boulder Rally Results
Results from the 2013 Portland Boulder Rally
→ Ueli Steck And Annapurna∞
PlanetMountain once again with the news making interview, this time with Ueli Steck after his incredible solo of the South Face of Annapurna:
Everything calmed down. Just like I’d already noticed at ABC the previous evening. And it was like that again. It quickly became dark and quiet. This was my chance. I was sure the winds would pick up again in the morning. So the only way to reach the summit was at night.
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