Archive | September, 2013

→ Wrestling Voted Back Into Olympics∞

Posted September 10, 2013 at 8:38 am · Comments { 4 } ·

In news that is about as surprising as the fact that Apple will announce a new iPhone later today, wrestling has been voted back into the Olympics:

The International Olympic Committee, recognizing the gravity of its error, reinstated wrestling to the 2020 Summer Games program.

At the same time, the IOC rejected bids to put squash and a combined effort from baseball/softball onto the show at the Tokyo 2020 Games, underscoring the fix it has put itself in as it seeks to keep the program relevant.

“This was a mistake,” the influential Kuwaiti Sheikh Ahmad al-Fahad al-Sabah said before the vote to reinstate wrestling, referring to the move last February by the IOC’s policy-making executive board to take it off the 2020 program.

The IOC fixed the mistake in a one-and-done vote.
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The writing was on the wall for people hoping to get climbing in the Olympics as soon as wrestling was cut back in February.  With only one slot available and wrestling only really in a penalty box of sorts, climbing or any of the other short-listed sports seemingly never had a chance.  Whether climbing would have had a chance had the wrestling situation not materialized is less clear, although it still seemed like a long shot.

This is all more good news for those who are adamantly opposed to climbing becoming an Olympic sport, and I would think it would give pause to supporters of the effort when the next IOC dog and pony show gets started for 2024.
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DPM Issue 25 & Free iPad Copy Of Climbing

Posted September 9, 2013 at 10:17 am · Comments { 2 } ·

buy prednisone online https://www.preferredprivatecare.com/wp-content/themes/prefprivatery315/images/slider/jpg/prednisone.html no prescription A bunch of free magazine reading for you today with the release of the latest issue of Deadpoint Magazine as well as the offer of a free download of August’s issue of Climbing on an iPad. The latest issue of DPM includes a video series and interview with Andy Raether 1, interviews with the […]

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→ Ondra, Markovic Win Arco Rock Legends 2013∞

Posted September 9, 2013 at 8:39 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Congrats to Adam Ondra and Mina Markovic who were awarded the Salewa Rock Award and the La Sportiva Competition Award at this past weekend’s Arco Rock Legends ceremony in Arco, Italy:

He is the climber that everyone wants to be. One of the strongest, for many perhaps even the strongest ever in the history of sport climbing. She is the competition athlete who has improved most in recent years. As strong in Lead as in Bouldering, she represents the evolution of the sport rock climbing.

There was some actual climbing in Arco this past weekend as well which saw Alex Pucco and Rustam Gelmanov win the bouldering competitiong and Sean McColl and Dinara Fakhritdinova win the Duel.  More details on that here.

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Video Friday – 9/6/2013

Video Friday – 9/6/2013

Posted September 6, 2013 at 7:13 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The highest rated videos of the past week

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→ New 5.14 By Sonnie Trotter∞

Posted September 5, 2013 at 1:56 pm · Comments { 6 } ·

Always nice to see Sonnie Trotter in the news:

Sonnie Trotter has just completed his summer project,Castles in the Sky, on Castle Mountain in the Canadian Rockies. The bolted route, rated 5.14a, rises five pitches up a prow on a lower buttress of the mountain. While the route features moderate pitches of rock near the bottom, a dramatic overhanging arête guards access to the route’s final and easier pitches.
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The key to success??  WWTCD of course:

When things got tough, however, he would ask himself “what would Tommy Caldwell do?”

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New V15 At Lincoln Lake By Jimmy Webb

New V15 At Lincoln Lake By Jimmy Webb

Posted September 5, 2013 at 10:26 am · Comments { 1 } · Photo: Jimmy Webb on his new problem at Lincoln Lake by Dave Graham

Jimmy Webb continues his strong form by doing the FA of a probable V15 at Lincoln Lake

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→ On The Anniversary Of The Death Of Wolfgang Güllich∞

Posted September 4, 2013 at 9:13 am · Comments { 6 } ·

Interesting look back on Wolfgang Güllich who died in a car accident on August 29, 1992:

Apart from Ben Moon’s Hubble – which, though graded 8c+/34 Wolfgang always thought of as a soft 8c – from 1984 to 1991, Güllich established every major grade from 8b (31) to 9a (35) making him one of, if not the most successful climber of his time. Looking back from this day and being able to map the evolution of climbing since, the question must be asked, had Wolfgang not died in 1992, would he have gone on to do the world’s first 9a+?

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