Interesting look back on Wolfgang Güllich who died in a car accident on August 29, 1992:
Apart from Ben Moon’s Hubble – which, though graded 8c+/34 Wolfgang always thought of as a soft 8c – from 1984 to 1991, Güllich established every major grade from 8b (31) to 9a (35) making him one of, if not the most successful climber of his time. Looking back from this day and being able to map the evolution of climbing since, the question must be asked, had Wolfgang not died in 1992, would he have gone on to do the world’s first 9a+?
“Apart from Ben Moon’s Hubble – which, though graded 8c+/34 Wolfgang always thought of as a soft 8c –”
I always find it strange when a climber downgrades a route they haven’t actually redpointed.
loading...
I know Bens still alive so people feel awkward reflecting on his achievements plus he keeps it more low key now, but for all Wolfgangs abilities (including his less mentioned ability to look great in a fluoro vest and leggings!) at the time Ben was probably better.
To wit “Ben Moon was eclipsed in many ways by Wolfgang Gullich, who was certainly not Bens equal in pure bouldering, or redpointing. This is the odd way history is, its not an accurate thing, its easily subverted” Stevie Haston
http://steviehaston.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/burning-off-ben-moon-by-stevie-gibbose.html
Not to take anything away from Wolfgang though – a total legend,
loading...
That article just made me wish that Stevie Haston was my crazy uncle.
loading...
Liquid Ambar (upgraded in the most recent guide) was the first 8c+ in 1990 (by Jerry Moffat) and Hubble was the first 9a, (not Action Direct the following year). Hubble is too hard for 8c+ according to Ondra, so much for ‘easy 8c’.
loading...
Talking about Ben and Wolfgang, they both provided so much inspiration for the community. They were both really pushing themselves hard all the time. When we watched Ben and Wolfgang we were saying “Sick! we want to do that too!” I had a mural of the crux move of Hubble painted on the back of my car by a teenage Ivan Green. Fun times.
loading...
Given the stupid shit Ivan does as an “adult”, I could only imagine what he must have been like as a smaller child.
loading...