Archive | August, 2013

→ Between Rocklands And A Hard Place∞

Posted August 20, 2013 at 9:45 am · Comments { 6 } ·

Why???

Discarded climbing tape and litter are an everyday find at the climbing areas; faeces and toilet paper are hidden in caves and under rocks; and huge tick lines and graffiti are abundant. It’s important to stress that the majority of climbers are considerate of the environment when at the crags, but there are always exceptions to the rule.
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The closure of one area here in Rocklands is solely due to us and, if we’re not careful, we will lose this stunning destination altogether.

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→ First 5.14d In Australia By Alex Megos∞

Posted August 19, 2013 at 10:26 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Great report with pictures from Simon Carter detailing how visiting climber Alex Megos ushered in Australia’s first 5.14d with his FA of Retired Extremely Dangerous in the Blue Mountains:

After taking the big whipper from the crux six or seven times Alex became frustrated. He lowered to the ground, pulled the rope, re-tied and immediately started climbing again.
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Somehow this tactic worked because this time he got through the crux — and it was a mighty fight to the end!
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→ New V14 In Chaos Canyon By Daniel Woods∞

Posted August 19, 2013 at 9:31 am · Comments { 8 } ·

Daniel Woods’ “boner arms” seem to have recovered quite well after his 2nd place finish at the Psicobloc Masters Series as he established a new V14 in the far reaches of Chaos Canyon in RMNP last week:

Yesterday Daniel Woods did the FA of The Wheel of Chaos V14 in Upper Upper Chaos. This is a very long and upward rising boulder problem that comes out of a huge cave way up high.
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Nalle Hukktaiaval made the first repeat of the problem yesterday.

∞ · Comments { 8 } · Climbers { 2 } · Areas { 1 }

Watch 2013 IFSC Youth World Championships Live 8/16-19

Posted August 16, 2013 at 10:45 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Coverage starts Friday morning at 9:20 PDT.

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Video Friday – 8/16/2013

Video Friday – 8/16/2013

Posted August 16, 2013 at 10:15 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The highest rated videos of the past week

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→ Kids Rule In Magic Wood∞

Posted August 15, 2013 at 10:01 am · Comments { 0 } ·

27 Crags has a nice recap of what the kids have been up to in Magic Wood, Switzerland over the past few weeks with the highlight being a repeat of One Summer In Paradise (V13) by 12-year-olds Ashima Shiraishi and Mirko Caballero.

Remember when climbing just your age used to be cool?
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→ A Climbing Chat With The Ladies∞

Posted August 14, 2013 at 9:49 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Jen Vennon, writing for her sponsor Prana’s blog:

Over the years I’ve kept a mental list of advice or suggestions I’d give to a girl new to the climbing world.

As someone who is not a girl but who has spent a lot of time trying to give beta to a girl who is over a foot shorter than me, I particularly enjoyed tip #3:

The problem with beta from big dudes is that their bodies are so much different from that of a woman. Even is the height is the same, our center of gravity is different and therefore the balance of any given move is going to be different.

Are you sure you don’t want to try my beta again?  It’ll totally work this time!
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