5.14c FA By Dan Mirsky At The Cathedral

DPM interviews Dan Mirsky after he did the FA of Solid Gold, a proposed 5.14c in Utah’s Cathedral:

So basically, Solid Gold is the most straight up way to climb the main awesome cave feature which is how it avoids all the rests and possibly makes it the hardest iteration of Golden. The style of the route is total power endurance; basically bouldery sequences with marginal rests the whole way starting with the one leaving Space Shuttle and culminating with the crux of Golden, an amazing sequence of spraggle pockets and tufa pinches on some of the best limestone I have touched. It is in my opinion the coolest crux sequence I have ever done.

Posted In: Asides, Interviews, News, Sport Climbing
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7 Responses to 5.14c FA By Dan Mirsky At The Cathedral

  1. yomama April 17, 2013 at 7:43 am #

    pretty sweet that DPM rakes Green over the coals for chipping then promotes an area that is totally chipped, glued and comfortized.

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  2. douglashunter April 17, 2013 at 10:12 am #

    “totally chipped” is a pretty grand over statement. Its far less chipped than other areas in the St. George / Vegas region. Also, DPM’s actions would be hypocritical if DPM and the other climbing related publications actually advanced and stood behind anti-chipping values, and took action by not giving ink to chipped routes. Obviously, they don’t do that. What they stand behind is attempting to draw the largest number of eyes, so that they can sell advertising. From that perspective there is no hypocrisy. We can judge for ourselves if their perspective is of value or not.

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    • Narc April 17, 2013 at 10:21 am #

      That is an interesting idea and one I’m not necessarily opposed to, but how does one even keep track of or know which climbs are chipped these days? It seems like there are actually very few high-end sport routes that pass the purity test, however one would define that with regards to what constitues cleaning vs chipping vs gluing, etc.

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  3. douglashunter April 17, 2013 at 11:44 am #

    Agreed, maybe no high end sport routes would pass such a test! Obviously, there are different ways the climbing media could handle the current situation. They could have a purity test and only report routes that pass such a test. On the other side they could be less sensationalistic when it comes to their covering of chipping (“I’m shocked, shocked to find chipping going on at American crags!”) in the web environment they could edit online reader comments when they get crazy. They could also report ascents of chipped sport routes and note that the route was chipped in their coverage. There are any number of ways to make chipping part of the discussion of FAs and other climbing achievements. I think what got yomama mad is that DPM just did what the other media do, they covered a chipping story and then covered an FA story and didn’t seem to consider that the two types of stories have a lot to do with each other.

    I don’t think its that hard to know what sport routes were cleaned, glued or chipped. At least its not hard to know what typically happens in each area and then ask questions based on the common knowledge. it’s kind of a trivia question “Who can name the most 5.14c or harder sport routes that were not cleaned, glued, comfortized, or chipped?” bonus points for anyone who can articulate what these categories mean and why / if they even matter.

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    • Narc April 17, 2013 at 11:46 am #

      I feel like someone (Ethan Pringle maybe) tried to do this once and the list was not terribly long.

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  4. Dave April 18, 2013 at 12:45 pm #

    I saw a blurb on this the other day… Reading closely, this FA turned out to be a link up with one bolt of new climbing. Now, linkups and grid bolting are always fun for bored locals, but is that kind of stuff really Rock & Ice spray worthy? Good job for guy sending his project for sure, but a one bolt linkup is news? Next we are going to find out that dude is from Boulder.

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  5. yomama April 18, 2013 at 2:14 pm #

    Narc,
    Simple solution would be to run all posts by DPM for approval. They can then let you know who and what routes are clean enough for the vulnerable climbing masses.

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