Interview with Shauna Coxsey from last weekend’s La Sportiva Legends Only bouldering competition
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Interview With Shauna Coxsey From La Sportiva Legends Only
Angie Payne’s Nemesis
I’ve been meaning to link to Angie Payne‘s blog for months now but for whatever reason I’ve never quite gotten around to it. After largely avoiding the online climbing world1 over the years, Payne has opened up on her blog with stories about her trip to Greenland with Ethan Pringle, her experiences in big competitions and her ongoing battle with Freaks of the Industry (V13) in RMNP. It’s this last topic that has most intrigued me, and while she unfortunately didn’t send the problem this season it was interesting to get some insight into her mindset:
Freaks is a nemesis that surpasses all nemeses I have ever had. This is not the first time I have invested multiple seasons in a boulder problem, but it is the first time I have experienced a mental battle of this magnitude.
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I have done every conceivable link on the boulder problem, save starting from one or two moves in, and I know I am capable of completing it.
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Yet, I have climbed to the end section of the problem more times than I’ll ever be able to count, only to fall at or a few moves past what is typically considered the linkage crux.
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I have tried countless mental approaches—getting angry, relaxing, letting my mind wander, repeating a mantra as I climb, screaming, rhythmic breathing, acting like my life depends on it, pretending I couldn’t care less about it, even drawing positive reminders on my arm—you name it, I have probably tried it. But the battle continues.
- Defined for the purposes of our story as either having a blog or having a scorecard ↩
Courage & Heroism In Climbing
Alex Honnold in this lengthy profile by Esquire:
“No, I am [proud], I guess, but that’s what I do. I’m a climber. Everyone’s got their thing. I could never hit 30 free throws in a row, but a basketball player would think that was trivial.
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”LeBron James doesn’t die if he misses, I tell him. Free soloing and free throws aren’t the same. One takes courage. It’s like his fans say on his comment threads: “It must be hard, climbing with balls that big”.
He grins. “The balls part is true. They are pretty freaking huge. But I wouldn’t say courage. Courage is doing something that you don’t want to do, like a soldier. I want to be halfway up a mountain. I think it’s awesome.”
I couldn’t agree more. To me words like courage or hero or brave have no real place when describing the actions of climbers.
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On the subject of free soloing, The Stone Mind has an insightful post today on this very topic:
…I admittedly feel a sadness at the thought of losing my friends and acquaintances. But the memento mori reminds us of our shared and universal fate. When we lose site of this, it becomes all to easy to imagine ourselves living forever, or that our success and wealth will somehow shield us from mortality. Death is the ultimate context, and we must live and act accordingly, whatever that means for each of us.
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Popular Posts & Videos For November 2012
The most popular post and videos for November 2012
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