Archive | November, 2012

Use It Or Lose It

Posted November 20, 2012 at 2:53 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Climbing legend Ben Moon, who is now 46-years-old, on his renewed motivation to sport climb:

Time really does seem to be relative and goes faster the older you get which is why you have to seize it with both hands and not waste it, especially if you are lucky enough to have good health. This is not always as easy as it sounds since nothing is possible without the motivation to do it and motivation can be a fickle friend, but if you have it you owe it to yourself to use it. As the old adage goes, use it or lose it.
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Ben Moon

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Will Stanhope Repeats The Prophet

Posted November 19, 2012 at 8:16 am · Comments { 10 } ·

Will Stanhope on his 4th ascent of The Prophet, a route on El Cap best known for its stunning “A1 Beauty” crux pitch:

I didn’t sleep much that night, instead just blinking at the stars from the portaledge, enjoying being up there. I felt enormously grateful for all my friends that helped me along the way. Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles, for the inspiration in the first place. If it wasn’t for those two brits, the Prophet wouldn’t exist.
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And Sonnie Trotter, for ropegunning the route last year. He took the leads when I was having serious doubts, terrified of re-breaking my foot.
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He never made me feel guilty about anything, instead he just gently took over the sharp-end, and showed me how it was done. The night seemed to drag on forever, but I was ecstatic, savoring every minute of darkness, high on the wall.

I don’t know much about big wall free climbing, but it is a bit confusing how Stanhope and 3rd ascenionist Nik Berry can take a variation around one of the crux pitches and still have repeated the same climb that Leo Houlding established. I’m inclined to take their word for it since they climb rad shit and I don’t, but it’s just something that crossed my mind as I read both their reports.

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Will Stanhope

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Yosemite

Video Friday – 11/16/2012

Posted November 16, 2012 at 6:57 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The highest rated videos of the past week

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Don’t Not Climb

Posted November 15, 2012 at 11:10 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Brendan Leonard on Semi-Rad:

You think you’re desensitized to violence because you’ve seen a million violent movies and TV shows,and then a young kid with his whole life ahead of him and all that smashes himself on a ledge three feet from you and you realize how scared you can really get. If what I had seen had been on a movie screen, I would have hidden behind my hand.
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Scary story.

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Wheel Of Life Direct By James Kassay

Posted November 15, 2012 at 7:10 am · Comments { 0 } ·

James Kassay blogs about his recent FA of a more direct version of Dai Koyamada’s Wheel Of Life in the Grampians Hollow Mountain Cave:

So what is the Direct finish??? Well as I have said before, my aim wasn’t to just start at the bottom of the cave and climb to the top the easiest possible way (Not saying that there is anything wrong with that for those who choose to do it and its still far from an easy option).
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There are four established problems that originally made up the wheel of life and whilst some of the crux moves can be traversed around to make the line easier I wanted to start at the lowest part of the cave, then follow the established problems; X-treme Cool, Sleepy Hollow, Cave Man and Dead Cant Dance and rather than taking the early exit out right I wanted to complete Dead Cant Dance up and slightly left which is the highest point of the cave and in my opinion the grandest line of the cave! So I started at the lowest point… Followed the established line of classic problems and finished at the highest point.
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James Kassay

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Grampians

Sean McColl’s 3 Weeks In Asia

Posted November 13, 2012 at 9:44 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The 2012 sport climbing World Cup wraps up this weekend in Kranj, Slovenia, but before it does I wanted to share a blog post that Sean McColl wrote about his recent 3 week swing through Asia for a trio of World Cups which found him on the podium for 2 out of the 3 events. Ironically enough, the one event where he didn’t finish on the podium was the one event where he finished the finals route…
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along with every other competitor in finals.

McColl was also in Venezuela over the weekend where took 1st in the lead climbing portion of the PanAmerican Games and Sasha DiGiulian won both lead and bouldering for the women.
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Climbing.com has more.

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Sasha DiGiulian, Sean McColl

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Watch Hot Ache’s Latest Film, Odyssey, Free Until 11/20

Posted November 12, 2012 at 11:32 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Did someone say “free” and “climbing movie” in the same sentence? Yep:

‘Odyssey’ is a road movie that celebrates the best of British trad climbing. From the bold Northumberland sandstone to the raging sea cliffs of Gogarth, four World-class climbers (James Pearson, Hazel Findlay, Hansjorg Auer and Caroline Ciavaldini) embark on a road-trip to attempt some of the most fierce and inspiring routes in the UK.
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Cinematic filmmaking, cutting edge traditional climbing and a 7.
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5 ton converted truck – the Odyssey begins!

Stream Odyssey for free on the Hot Aches website until 11/20 after which you’ll have to fork over whatever £14.99 ¹ is in U.S. American currency to add this movie to your collection.