Last weekend 12-year-old Drew Ruana took his climbing to the next level by repeating Vicious Fish (5.13d) at Smith Rock, OR. The route description on Mountain Project sounds nightmarish for the small statured:
This is the ultimate prize on the Churning Buttress. Each winter hardmen flock to this site in search of ‘good’ (read: frigid) conditions for the redpoint. This is another great example of a route without holds.
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Sure, there are holds in spots, but in the business, you’re basically slapping and sloping on pitiful ripples.
Drew Ruana on Vicious Fish – Photos by Ryan Palo
Ruana has been climbing since he was 3 but only started climbing seriously the past 3 years or so. This ascent builds on previous notable sends by Ruana at Smith Rock including Churning In The Wake (5.13a), Oxygen (5.13b) and Rude Boys (5.13c). Here are a pair of so-so quality videos showing the latter two sends:
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNBCLlonL4E]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDkgbIfZaOg]
Big number repeated by little number. These way strong little cockroaches are killing climbing for me. Thank god for trad climbing!
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My understanding is that Vicious Fish is by no means one of the easier 5.13ds at Smith. It is, however, one of the most classic. Props to Drew for understanding the value of testing oneself on classic lines, even if you have to work a little harder for the points. Respect.
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Awesome. That climb looks ridiculous. Great to see the next generation kids taking advantage of classic (and sandbagged) lines. Nice picture Palo
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Yeah, the old 13c/d grade on that one is kind of ridiculous… If you can climb Vicious Fish you’re definitely capable of 5.14 in other areas. Nice job little crusher.
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Dude! Those climbs are ridiculous, let alone at 4 feet tall. Way to make it happen Drew. I do not even want to imagine what you will be climbing as a teenager.
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Yep, the lil’ guy kills it. I asked him get my draws off a route for me in December. He didn’t mind. Lucky for me my ego was crushed long ago… Good work Drew!
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Awesome – there are so many really young and out standing climbers in this generation! Only problem was I had to mute the sound because we didn’t care for what sounded like someone whispering in our ears throughout the whole video. 🙂
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