Archive | February, 2012
Video Friday – 2/24/2012

Video Friday – 2/24/2012

Posted February 24, 2012 at 6:59 am · Comments { 7 } ·

2012 ABS Nationals and Video Friday

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Five

Five

Posted February 23, 2012 at 6:18 am · Comments { 34 } ·

Do you remember what you were doing five years ago today?

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Nina Caprez Repeats Mind Control (5.14c)

Nina Caprez Repeats Mind Control (5.14c)

Posted February 21, 2012 at 9:07 am · Comments { 13 } ·

Just a day or two after Daila Ojeda did the FFA of Mind Control (5.14c) at Oliana Nina Caprez succeeded in redpointing the route as well.  She calls the route a “perfect line” on her blog where she also had this to say about the grade:

The grade of Mind Control is really not extreme. If somebody will downgread, why not.
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But honestly, grades are so unimportant.
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I’ve had the chance to climb such a fantastic line and I feel so alive and my body is full of energy and power. I can realize my dreams, what else counts in live?
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Busy Times In Hueco

Busy Times In Hueco

Posted February 20, 2012 at 7:15 am · Comments { 11 } ·

High season is in full effect in Hueco Tanks for Jorg Verhoeven, Katha Saurwein, Alex Puccio, Alex Johnson and Dave Graham

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Double Mind Control (5.14c) Send Day

Double Mind Control (5.14c) Send Day

Posted February 17, 2012 at 2:06 pm · Comments { 11 } · Photo: Daila Ojeda on Mind Control by Keith Ladzinski

It was a big day on the big wall at Oliana yesterday as both Daila Ojeda and Joe Kinder grabbed repeats of Chris Sharma’s Mind Control1, a stunning 5.14c most famous for being onsighted by Adam Ondra.  Big Up Productions is still out in Spain so look for footage of all this Spain stuff at, presumably, this year’s Reel Rock Tour.
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 Footage of Ojeda working Mind Control last year can be seen in this Sterling Rope spot.

  1. Mind Control now has two check marks on the unofficial list of reasons a hard route can be downgraded—it’s been onsighted and Joe Kinder climbed it a woman climbed it—so look for that in the near future. ↩
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Video Friday – 2/17/2012

Video Friday – 2/17/2012

Posted February 17, 2012 at 6:16 am · Comments { 2 } ·

ABS Nationals news and the highest rated videos for the past week

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“Fuerza My People”

Posted February 16, 2012 at 2:52 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

In a post on Five Ten’s site Dave Graham reflects in his usual style on the last few months of 2011 which culminated with his FA of Memory is Parallax (V14):

In a day and age where each boulder problem is argued to be less and less significant (its not that hard, its not that cool, its not that tall, its not what I like, no one will go there, blah blah blah) I find it truly important to share when things do matter. When something I have done a boulder is significant.
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I took a lot from this experience as a person, even though I just climbed a rock, it was a massive milestone, and a true personal accomplishment, but it was because of how it fit into my life, where I was when I did it, and where I came from before I started trying it.
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