It was a big day on the big wall at Oliana yesterday as both Daila Ojeda and Joe Kinder grabbed repeats of Chris Sharma’s Mind Control1, a stunning 5.14c most famous for being onsighted by Adam Ondra. Big Up Productions is still out in Spain so look for footage of all this Spain stuff at, presumably, this year’s Reel Rock Tour.
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Footage of Ojeda working Mind Control last year can be seen in this Sterling Rope spot.
- Mind Control now has two check marks on the unofficial list of reasons a hard route can be downgraded—it’s been onsighted and Joe Kinder climbed it a woman climbed it—so look for that in the near future. ↩
ooooohhh, if you hadn’t crossed out that part about Joe Kinder that would be a BURRRRRRN
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Hopefully people realize this is all in good fun
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Yes, hopefully, but you know not everyone is as astute as you, Narc. Badass that they both sent that thing in the same day. Looking forward to seeing the footage in a year or so.
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If “someone” onsights something really hard, maybe it should be downgraded. If Ondra onsights something really hard, probably no reason to panic.
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Yeah, AO onsights have no bearing on difficulty.
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It’s awesome to see more women climbing at this level… Joe too! All kidding aside, the talent pool for hard route climbing is only getting bigger and it’s going to be a lot of fun watching more and more routes at the upper end of the spectrum seeing onsight and flash ascents from both men and women. It’s good motivation for the rest of us to try harder!
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While I realize you were joking, it’s still not funny. It’s not acceptable that Daila’s climbing is often overlooked because she just happens to be Sharma’s
girlfriend belayer.
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(the word gf is supposed to be crossed out)
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Based on how quickly news of her send spread does it really seem like she is getting overlooked in any way?
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I have heard absolutely no sounds of a downgrade, so I’m not waiting for that actually. strange that female ascents are somehow a reason for downgrading… even if it’s a joke, it misses the mark IMO.
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