It’s been a busy few weeks in Hueco Tanks where an international crew of boulderers have assembled to take advantage of all that Hueco has to offer.
The Netherland’s Jorg Verhoeven and Austria’s Katha Saurwein have been travelling throughout the States for the last several months excelling at seemingly every style of climbing. They spent some time in Kentucky where Verhoeven climbed routes as hard as 5.14d, they both climbed a slew of highballs in Bishop and in Hueco the story has been much the same. Verhoeven has ticked off several testpieces including Esperanza (V14), Slashface (V13), Alma Blanca (V13), Nagual (V13) and the rarely climbed The Land Before Time (V13)1. Saurwein has been on a tear as well, climbing three V11’s in a single day with repeats of Mo Mojo, Sunshine and Le Chinkel. She’s since added a one day ascent of Rumble In The Jungle (V11 or 12) as well according to updates on Martin Keller’s blog.
American expat Alex Puccio wrapped up a very successful visit to Hueco by flashing Crimping Christ On The Cross (V10) and repeating Mo Mojo (V11), Chablanke (V11) and Barefoot On Sacred Ground (V11). Looking at her 8a scorecard we can see that she did 9 double digit boulders during her stay in Hueco. The UK’s Shauna Coxsey also made the trip to Hueco with Puccio and had a great deal of success herself completing eight double digit problems including the classic V10 Full Service.
Representing Team America in Hueco are the likes of Alex Johnson and Dave Graham. Johnson notched a repeat of Barefoot on Sacred Ground (V11) according to her 8a scorecard while Graham has been cleaning up a few of the existing lines he hadn’t done previously and also establishing a few new lines including a pair of potential V13’s.
Dave Graham on his new V13 Bastard in a Basket on East Mountain
[instagram url=’http://instagr.am/p/oly-x/’ size=’medium’ addlink=’yes’]
- The cool pocketed roof first done by Dave Graham and Chris Sharma in Dosage IV ↩
I wonder why “The Land Before Time” doesn’t see more repeats? Are people not trying it, or is it really hard for 8B?
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I had heard that the problem had broke a bit.
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Where is that problem?
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It is on East nearish to Meddle Detector.
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I always wondered that too! Looks like such a stellar problem in Dosage…… 4??
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What about tactile style, has that thing seen a second ascent?
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RIghto – answered my own question
http://climbingnarc.com/2010/03/news-notes-3162010/
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Land before time probably doesn’t get repeated much because it is a mud roof with a terrible landing. It wouldn’t suprise me if that thing crumbled a little bit everytime someone tried it. On a side note, it happens to be part of the same roof that holds house of doom.
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what about bearcam, repeated wheaties first try yesterday, also crushed the strip clubs with the crew, so sick !!!!
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I’m one of the guys, right?
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Fo reals bearcam. Its like nobody even cares about the classics now a days…
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