News & Notes – 3/16/2010
March 16, 2010 
2 Comments
The spring thaw continues here in Wisconsin, and if last year was any sort of trend the climbing season should be on at Devil’s Lake for the next 8 months or so. I’d be more excited about this development if a) I had done any sort of meaningful training this winter and b) the finger injury I was resting all winter felt any different than it did back in November. WHY???
But enough about me. Here are some News & Notes from people who are out there getting things done:
- At the Jailhouse crag in California, Natasha Barnes redpointed Assassin (5.13d) while Alex Honnold redpointed Hacktivism (5.14b) and a new link-up he called Knee To Mile (5.14b). In total, Honnold has now done 7 5.14b’s; all but one coming at the Jailhouse.
- GP Salvo has done the first repeat of Tactile Style, a desperate V13 on West Mountain at Hueco Tanks that was first done by Chris Sharma in Dosage IV.
- Dean Potter checks in with an interesting post on the Five Ten blog:
Security was the main thing that lacked in my life. As I push towards more and more ultimate dreams on the rock, in the air and on the line I need stability, something to return to. These next years I plan on traveling the world looking for enchanted places where the ultimate in natural-human achievement can be reached. I want to fly free!
- Hard new routes are getting done at Colorado’s Shelf Road
- It’s not often that an ad on TV causes me to do a double take as I fast forward past it with my DVR, but this American Express commercial featuring Yvon Chouinard was a rare exception:
- The HP40 Rocks Comps was a big success with 150 competitors and some 200 spectators on hand to raise over $2500 for various charities. Brad Weaver won the open division by completing an impressive 24 problems rated V7 or harder.
- Simon Carter shares a series of excellent photos of a new 5.14b in Australia’s Blue Mountains.
- Peter Beal takes an insightful look at volume 1 of the autobiography of Royal Robbins:
Readers looking for climbing narrative will be relatively disappointed. Though the book is bracketed by beautifully written accounts of Robbins’ groundbreaking solo on the Leaning Tower, its value lies elsewhere.
- Access Alert for New York State Parks
- Kelly Cordes shares the story from his recent accident that left him with a severely injured leg
- Andy Mann shares how he constructed an image of GP Salvo attempting Nagual in Hueco Tanks
- Rock climbing game coming to the Nintendo Wii?
- Cool video of the bouldering in Varazze, Italy
- It’s never too early to get excited about the alpine climbing season in Colorado. I know I’m already getting excited for our brief visit in early July.
- For climbers in the Frontrange or Dallas, here is an event coming up in April where you can help raise money for young adults with cancer:
Related Posts
Climbers: Alex Honnold, Brad Weaver, Dean Potter, GP Salvo, Kelly Cordes, Mark Anderson, Natasha Barnes, Royal Robbins, Yvon Chouinard
Areas: Blue Mountains, Horse Pens 40, Hueco Tanks, Jailhouse, Shelf Road, Varazze
When a finger injury does not improve after several months of rest something might be permanently damaged. Maybe an operation is needed. Did you see a doctor about it?
My finger injury healed quickly while climbing jugs 2 times a week for about 2 months (not very motivating..). This increases blood flow to the finger without stressing it.
But hey, everyone is different and im no expert.
The problem is actually within my knuckle from when I cracked it some 9 years ago so it behaves a bit differently than your run of the mill pulley strain. I think the main problem is that my months of rest are broken up too frequently with spurts of trying much too hard. My mind thinks I can try harder than my body would like and I have a hard time pacing myself in that mindset.