About two years ago Paul Robinson made a trip to Red Rock Canyon outside Las Vegas leaving behind a couple V13 FAs, one of which was called Meadowlark Lemon. Robinson initially climbed Meadowlark Lemon from a stand start while the full line starting from a sit start remained a project…until yesterday.
Robinson is back in Vegas and according to 27Crags he linked a V13 sit start into the original V13 stand start to yield a likely V15 boulder still called Meadowlark Lemon. Comments Robinson:
I considered it one of the best lines I have ever climbed on in the entire world. The boulder is super physical, yet really technical.
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The crux revolves around some really crazy heel hooks on the left arete.
The ascent was captured on film for Chuck Fryberger’s upcoming movie, The Network.
Hell yeah, congrats to Robinson! Doesn’t hurt that the boulder is beautiful too. The US is getting some more damn hard shit . . . Ice Knife, Mirror Reality, Memory is Parallax and this, all in the last few months.
Oddly enough I walked up this canyon for the first time since the 90s specifically to see if this problem had been done and ran into a couple of guys who told me Paul was going to do the sit “any day”. Back then, when I was trying futily to get people other than me psyched on the boulders in this wash “tried” this (brushed and chalked holds is more accurate) and everyone acted like I was nuts for even considering it climbable. I estimated that it’d be around 11/12 (random thoughts, really), top of the standard back then, and figured it would take a Sharma-ish type to come along. And that’s what happened… 15 years later.
Congrats, Paul. And I agree, one of the purest-looking lines I’ve ever seen. The reason why I was still thinking about it after all these years.
Thanks for sharing that!
I don’t usually comment here, but I have to say, that’s one of the more inspiring stories I’ve read lately. The exploration aspect is always just as (if not more) interesting to me than the climbing aspect.. and as someone who spends a LOT of time running around brushing holds on things I may never climb, this was neat to read. Thanks.