Archive | January, 2012

Adam Ondra Interviewed By New Swedish Website

Adam Ondra in an October 2011 interview with new Swedish website Stockholmsklättring:

I think I’m quite efficient in climbing routes in a few attempts but I do think that if I spent 50 tries or more on one route I might be able to climb 9b+1 but certainly I wouldn’t be able to climb any harder. You have to bear in mind that when you are working on a route for a long time there is a mental barrier which you have to breach. Additionaly in reality you loose your power because your only trying a handfull of moves which means you are not training so much. You just keep climbing the very same moves and it could be true that you progress on these specific moves but in reality your shape is decreasing.

My question for Ondra:  When are you coming to America??

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New V14 In RMNP By Daniel Woods

B3Bouldering has the lowdown on Mirror Reality, a new V14 established by Daniel Woods in RMNP, CO:

There are only a handful of boulders in the area, but this relatively short problem is one of the best. The first move is a difficult one, perhaps the crux, and it is followed by small flat edges which culminate in a difficult dyno to the lip of the boulder and a tenuous and subtle top out.

Update –  More from Woods on the new line:

The nature of the rock is glassy with large chunks of crystal seamed together, creating just enough friction to hold on. The beginning is steep (45 degree angle), but as soon as you reach the lip, the angle changes to a bulged out slab.
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You begin with a 4 move V12 which crux revolves around a low percentage first move. The theme of the problem begins (most of the time concludes) at the half way point of the boulder. Here you take a flat full pad edge with your right hand and a flat half pad edge with your left, place your right toe on a needle tip piece of crystal, and jump blindly over the bulge to a glassy sloper with your left hand. This one move in itself is around V11 and is tough to stick from this point, let alone from the beginning.
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The exit is a 4 move V9/10 with a hard right foot rock over to the finishing edge. At this point you are relieved and can walk off to the right.

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Video Friday – 1/6/2012

Video Friday – 1/6/2012

It’s a new year and and new set of videos to kick off another year of Video Friday

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Registration Opens For 2012 ABS Nationals

Registration Opens For 2012 ABS Nationals

Registration is now open for the 2012 edition of ABS Nationals.

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2011 Year In Review

2011 Year In Review

A look back at the popular posts and videos for December as well as for the rest of the year

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Dave Graham Ends 2011 On High Note With V14 FA

Dave Graham Ends 2011 On High Note With V14 FA

Dave Graham finished 2011 on a high note by sending his project near Estes Park, CO which he is calling Memory is Parallax and suggesting a grade of V14 for according to this entry on his 8a scorecard:

Amazing climbing with drop knees, smears, and small crimps. Looks kinda like Stained Glass, but its much bigger!
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SYKED!!!

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