First, I would like to congratulate Jon S and Becca S1 for winning the Access Fund Prize Pack contest for this year. Thanks to everyone who participated.
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Second, wow. This was some week. One minute it’s the news of Adam Ondra repeating Gioia (V16) followed very quickly by the video from his send. The next minute it’s the release of the video of Sasha DiGiulian making history with her repeat of Pure Imagination (5.14d). In just a few days the videos have racked up over 100,000 views combined and they really could not be more different.
The Gioia video is a raw, 1990’s quality demonstration of Ondra’s dogged determination. The Pure Imagination video is in many ways the opposite: polished, professional and very well done2. But even though both videos are so different, they are equally inspiring in their own way. I know I’ll be watching each many more times in the weeks to come.
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Video Friday
It should be no surprise to see the two above videos in this week’s edition of Video Friday, but what other videos will make the cut? I get many emails throughout the weeks where people send me their videos and ask me to put them in this Video Friday post. The short answer is that I would love to be able to do that, but I can’t.
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The videos that appear here are actually selected automatically based on their average star rating, so if you want to see your videos here be sure to a) make good videos and b) make sure they are getting the star ratings they deserve.
What is more groundbreaking/inspiring in your opinion: Ondra pushing the limits of bouldering or Sasha pushing the limits of women sport climbing?
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Um, did Ondra push the limits with Gioia? Wasn’t it climbed 3 years ago and given 8C?
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Well played.
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No, not really.
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He also established a V16 at his home crag. He upgraded Gioia to V16. He is the only person to have climbed two V16s. I did not say with Gioia, I said with bouldering. Bad point.
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Is anyone else a bit sick of the flak that Sasha is getting from the international community? Reading the comments on 8a.nu from her video, it seems like people view her as superficial, etc. I think this is total crap. Sasha seems like a really authentic person. She is very straightforward about her love of the color Pink, her youth, and her optimism, and she’s not trying to be anything that she’s not. She’s not trying to sell an ethos here, just climb and inspire. Maybe everyone would be happier if she was more depressive, closeted, and introverted. I dunno.
Anyway, this was one of the most inspiring and earnest videos I’ve seen this year and I am super psyched to see what Sasha can do in the years to come.
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Well, obviously from the video we can see she is a very happy person who is thriving in her chosen activity. I don’t think you need to worry about how comments by random internet trolls will affect her.
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Exactly. The whole pink thing seemed in good fun and put a light-hearted spin on the video. It’s refreshing to see a psych that is similarly genuine and light-hearted. Not to mention she’s only 18 . . .
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The gals always get more flak than the guys. There’s a reason for it, there’s a word for it, and it isn’t pretty. In a sport with so many massive and fragile egos…
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I think that she is an immensely talented person, not just because she is a girl, but just because she is able to climb a 5.14d. Anybody who can do that is amazing, and I don’t think it has anything to do with someone’s gender.
Ryan
getontherocks.blogspot.com
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Just missed Nalle’s flash vid of Crown of Aragorn. He makes it look V7.
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am I the only one who noticed jamie emerson’s b3bouldering.com site is down? It’s been down since wednesday, and am wondering what happened? Any ideas?
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You’re not the only one. It should be back up early next week.
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Congratz to all those climbers. I’m still In the 5.11c’s.
Ryan Steinwert
getontherocks.blogspot.com
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