post

Adam Ondra Repeats Monkey Wedding (V15)

August 15, 2011 Narc

After winning overall Gold at the 2011 World Championships in Arco Adam Ondra commented that he was going to spend the rest of the year focusing on bouldering. After a quick stop in Margalef, Spain where he made quick work of two 5.14d's he's made his way to Rocklands, South Africa, a place where he had great success flashing two V13s two years ago.

Last night I mentioned on the ClimbingNarc.com Facebook page that Ondra had already repeated the Fred Nicole crimp problem Amandla (V14) and that he was close to doing Nicole's Monkey Wedding (V15) as well. Even as I posted that it may have been out of date because yesterday Ondra repeated Monkey Wedding for its 3rd ascent after Nicole and Paul Robinson in 2010.

In other news out of Rocklands, Slovenian Rok Klancnik also repeated Amandla according to his 8a scorecard and American Dave Wetmore repeated The Vice (V13).

Photo of Adam Ondra attempting Amandla from two years ago from PlanetFear.com

Update: Ondra has now updated his 8a scorecard where we can learn that he also flashed The Power Of One (V13) and sent Madiba (suggests V13) in 2 quick tries.

Legacy discussion

21 comments

Crimpin' Ain't EasyAugust 15, 2011
badass...hey narc, has ondra ever spent any time on US rock?
1. NarcAugust 15, 2011
  AFAIK he has spent zero time climbing here. Can't be long before he does though, right?? Would be very interesting to see if anything can slow him down.
  1. Crimpin' Ain't EasyAugust 15, 2011
    bummer...would be sick to start hearing those screams on the approach to Waimea one day...then again theres only 2/3 routes up there he would have to put more than a couple tries into
Mike CadyAugust 15, 2011
Yeah, I think he will come here and put whatever he climbs to bed very quickly except maybe, Jumbo Love?!? Can't wait to see what he does once he makes it over!
Mike CadyAugust 15, 2011
Yeah, I think he will come here and put whatever he climbs to bed very quickly except maybe, Jumbo Love?!? Can't wait to see what he does once he makes it over!
DavidAugust 15, 2011
Incredible, I'd love to see Adam examined on Sports Science to see what exactly is so unique about his physiology.
1. gunitAugust 15, 2011
  he is a teenage mutant ninja
  1. DavidAugust 16, 2011
    Marfan's syndrome?
Spro1August 15, 2011
Didn't Jamie Emerson say that this was overgraded by Paul Robinson? Jamie - what's your take on the V15 here?
1. joeyjoejoeAugust 16, 2011
  STFU!
  1. Spro1August 16, 2011
    Fanboy feelings hurt?
    What?August 16, 2011
    simply anti-troll.
ktmtAugust 15, 2011
Jumbo Love: As Randy Levitt said of Sharma, "I know he can do it. I just hope it takes him a while." Sharma routes seem to give Ondra the most trouble. They could sell tickets if he does come one day to climb Jumbo Love.
1. NarcAugust 15, 2011
  From the sounds of it you might need a helicopter just to get to that crag these days given the condition of the road
2. NarcAugust 15, 2011
  From the sounds of it you might need a helicopter just to get to that crag these days given the condition of the road
  1. VladAugust 16, 2011
    That was Sharma's secret way of doing a route that Adam can't repeat (-:
    BrianhAugust 16, 2011
    Apparently Sharma's Three Degrees of Separation shut down the alien bird man.
DaveAugust 16, 2011
It's always tricky when you compare the efforts of one climber against the efforts of another. Like the three degrees example above... How many days did Ondra put into 3D? How many days did Sharma?

Maybe it's always been this way, but comparing the efforts of known guys (or gals) is a very shaky scale because you really just don't know what happened. I guess at the end of the day it is results that count (send or no send), but I think the implication is that if A succeeded where B failed, that is somewhat denigrating B. Not that I didn't enjoy it when it happened in The Professionals, but there is a wide spectrum of efforts and back stories that a simple statement like "ondra couldn't do it" just don't cover.
1. DanDanAugust 16, 2011
  I believe that Ondra himself said he got shut down on 3DOS - simply couldn't do the big dyno. I don't think anyone is saying that reflects badly on Ondra. It's just interesting to note, considering that routes graded 9a rarely seem to require more than a few goes for Adam. I think Ethan Pringle also recently commented that 3DOS seemed way harder than 9a to him. It's always tricky grading routes at the extremes of styles.
  1. FasdfafAugust 20, 2011
    I heard some holds on 3 degrees broke, making the moves below the dyno quite difficult. Not sure if dyno itself has changed
RentsAugust 17, 2011
http://www.adamondra.com/two-new-routes-for-adam-ondra-in-ceuse