Golden Direct (5.14d) Repeated By Jonathan Siegrist

Golden Direct (5.14d) Repeated By Jonathan Siegrist

It’s been a little while since we checked in with Jonathan Siegrist who is still hanging out down in the Las Vegas area.  Since his repeat of Necessary Evil (5.14c) he spent some time cleaning up a few remaining climbs around the Virgin River Gorge as well as in Red Rocks.

With temps down low getting a bit out of hand Siegrist moved to higher ground and set to work on Joe Kinder’s Golden Direct (5.14d) at the Cathedral in southern Utah.  Golden Direct adds some 5.13 climbing straight into Golden (5.14b) to to yield a route that is “truly incredible” according to Siegrist.  After making slow progress initially, Siegrist was able to put things together for the route’s likely 3rd ascent (2nd being Chris Sharma).

Check out Siegrist’s blog for the full rundown on the experience which includes props to Joe Kinder for putting up routes like this.

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9 Responses to Golden Direct (5.14d) Repeated By Jonathan Siegrist

  1. UnkArl April 8, 2011 at 1:00 pm #

    I’m intrigued/confused; how does adding some 5.13 climbing to the start of a 5.14b make a 5.14d?

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  2. Crimp'n Ain't Easy April 8, 2011 at 1:39 pm #

    Sweeet…I was getting pretty sick of hearing about jstar onsighting 13s anyway…blort…He’s a beast…wonder whats next for him? Has he ever climbed hard abroad?

    also, Narc, do you know if it’s true that Sharma did GD 2nd try?!?! THat would be crazzzy…

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    • Narc April 8, 2011 at 1:43 pm #

      That’s the word on the street regarding Sharma.

      Jonathan has climbed a bunch in Yangshuo, but I don’t believe he’s done much
      hard climbing in Europe. He’s also never done this really sweet .13a in his
      home state of WI which he should really come back to do…

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  3. odubmusic April 8, 2011 at 2:39 pm #

    If I recollect correctly, from Joes blog when he first did GD, the 13 intro also avoided a big (nohands?) rest, and blasted directly into harder climbing.

    Sharma did GD 2nd try, but I believe he did the FA of Golden, so he’d done the meat of the route previously.

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    • Narc April 8, 2011 at 2:51 pm #

      Yep, he talks about that here. Too bad the helpful beta pictures got lost when Joe biffed his blog a while back.

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  4. Dave April 8, 2011 at 2:49 pm #

    Nice! Yes, it’s only a matter of time before Siegrist disappears to Europe, along with the rest of the top American sport climbers.

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    • Colin April 8, 2011 at 3:52 pm #

      Can you blame them? Trad climbers make their pilgrimage to Yosemite, boulderers to Hueco, and sport climbers to Europe (or the Red/New if they can’t afford the international flight).

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      • Dylan April 8, 2011 at 5:23 pm #

        Additionally, he’s pretty much done with the established hard stuff at the Red, so unless he goes back to get more FA’s there’s not a ton left for him to do there.

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  5. Mike Personick April 9, 2011 at 6:26 pm #

    J-Star is living in Vegas right now. I think I remember hearing a little while back about some enormous hard route somewhere near Vegas? Some guy named Chris something did it? Jumbo something?

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