2 Swiss V15s For Adam Ondra

Posted December 1, 2010 at 8:23 am · Comments { 6 } ·

According to his scorecard Adam Ondra did his 2nd V15 in as many days yesterday with a repeat of Dave Graham’s From Dirt Grows The Flowers in Chironico, Switzerland.  On Monday he repeated Big Paw, a V15 also in Chironico and also first done by Dave Graham.  Ondra comments on his scorecard that both might be V14/15 but admits he isn’t an expert in boulder grades.
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 Check out video of Bernd Zangerl on the second ascent of FTDGTF here.

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6 Responses to 2 Swiss V15s For Adam Ondra

  1. cole gibson December 1, 2010 at 10:19 am #

    Jesus Christ!!!! That kid is UNSTOPPABLE!!! Does anyone have an idea what the attitudes of young American climbers/boulderers is towards Ondra, I know I’d be fucking jealous for sure. Do they have a tendency to hate on him or are they just as amazed as me?

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  2. Philly Cheese December 1, 2010 at 10:36 am #

    Wow…two V15s in two days and he downgrades them both…brave and humble indeed.

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    • Mojo December 1, 2010 at 1:03 pm #

      He did not downgrade them . . . He called them 8B+/8C, said that they were both harder than any 8B+ he has done.

      He actually registered them both as 8C on his 8a scorecard, mentioned the slash grade in the comments . . . and gave one a “log-book, no score” so as not to receive more points than he thought he deserved.

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  3. David December 1, 2010 at 10:00 pm #

    I am continually amazed by adam ondra as well as others that are bouldering at the “head of the inch worm” as carlo would say…To be able to approach a climb and dispatch it that quick says something about the amount of skill it takes and to some degree how easy it was as opposed to how difficult it maybe for them, from pauls 20 min v14 to adams 2 v14/15s in 2 days. These amazing feats are constantly being accomplished by these elite climbers and always have been…I know the question has been asked over and over, but what would happen is Ondra, Graham, Woods, Robinson or any strong climber spent more than a handful of days on something…i struggle in the gym for weeks on some projects only to have accomplished several moves, it is then stripped and replaced with a new one. It is crazy to imagine such things and only time will tell perhaps v17 will be reached this way…Such things baffle me and I could not imagine what such a piece of rock would begin to look like, perhaps resemble a sheet of glass?

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    • DreamingGnar December 4, 2010 at 12:28 pm #

      The “sheet of glass” argument pops up a lot, always has as far as I’ve been able to tell in researching the history of the sport.

      I’m not convinced. you could argue that we have already reached that. There are plenty of slabbed problems out at my local home crag of Enchanted Rock. The first historical lines followed obvious lines of weakness with features and such, but there are those there that look impassable and featureless. They’re not impossible, just more subtle. you have to redefine your notions of what constitutes a hold.

      The hard problems of the future are just like those slabs. obviously not similar in angle, but similar in subtlety. Just like the ascents of the past the new hardest lines will require the vision to see features where others do not, the creativity to link them with a flow of body positions, the strength to pull on and finish, and the power of mind to do so efficiently.

      Even in my own small climbing experience I’ve been amazed how my perception changes. I went from baffled at the idea of a 5.5 slab (which was FA’d free-solo-onsight) to dancing up the more delicate problems at the crag which once upon a time would more have resembled a sheet of glass to me than a climb.

      It just takes perspective, and perhaps a shift in it, to imagine what’s possible.

      The hard part is telling the difference between “cutting edge” and “absolute madness”

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  4. AB December 11, 2010 at 8:37 am #

    I think one can look up Nalle’s blog (http://nalle-hukkataival.blogspot.com/2010/04/sisu-project.html) for a potential reference to a “futuristic looking” problems.. It’s been a while but if I recall correctly he was saying that one of the foot sequence in itself weighted at around v12.

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