On his blog Magnus Midtbø reports he did the FA of Blood Redemption in Matre, Norway which he calls “the hardest problem of my life” and suggests a grade of V15. Blood Redemption adds a V12/13 sit start to a long V13ish problem called Gjeddehenget (which has apparently broken since Midtbø did the FA in 2008). Midtbø had this to say about the problem:
Two and a half hours before my flight back to Oslo i made it! The sit start adds four moves to the boulder and makes it into a totally different boulder – Four of the hardest and definitely most amazing moves I have ever done!
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Here’s some video I found of fellow Norwegian Andreas Olsen climbing on Gjeddehenget to give you an idea what the problem is like:
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOTLRr2ZZHM]
Last minute victories are sometimes the most satisfying!
exciting looking line too. that’s a pretty clean roof, not much guesswork for what to grab, the little that’s there all looks quite necessary.
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