To follow up on last week’s post detailing a trip Tommy Caldwell took to the “Tuolumne of China” is this report written by Caldwell himself for Patagonia’s The Cleanest Line blog. Among other things Caldwell details some of the difficulties associated with climbing on virgin granite:
Ground up first ascents in Ketetuhai proved to be pretty full on, especially on The Divine Bell. We would crank out a few lie-back moves with our feet skidding all over on moss, get to a tenuous stance, pull out the wire brush and scrub the next face section. Then, while trying to blink moss out of our eyes we would climb to the next hair line fracture, pound in a pecker or knife blade, and run it out hoping to find somewhere to put in an anchor. I began to think maybe the security guards were right … this climbing business really is dangerous!